T1G UP Posted January 4, 2009 Posted January 4, 2009 I ended up going up to the plain yesterday. Gave the td5 a sight dunking and did around 60 miles no probs. VERY cold last night...-7! Started ok this morning left it ticking over,when i came out it had stopped. No whirring noises from the pump? when i tried to re start it there is a yellow sign on the dash, bottom rhs that looks ike a little bowl with a drip off the bottom? Fuse is OK and the relays pulling in? Can some one talk me throught the td5 fuel system so i cn change some filters etc Quote
western Posted January 4, 2009 Posted January 4, 2009 that warning light means 'water in fuel' drain the unit & it should reset & be fine. Quote
GBMUD Posted January 4, 2009 Posted January 4, 2009 Just in case Western's description of the filters is not sufficient, the fuel filter and water sperator/sensor/drain is located in the RHS rear wheel arch. There is a metal cover over it. Once the cover is off you will see there is a sensor in the bottom of the filter, you need to remove that sensor to drain off any water. Beware they can shear off. The fuel pump should run when you turn on the ignition and stay on for some time (30 seconds) before they turn off. If you start the engine the fuel pump continues to run. If you change the filter you need to 'purge' the fuel system before you can start the engine. do a purge. ignition to pos II, pump the throttle 5 times, you'll the the MIL flashing and you hear the fuel pump running, wait for 2 min. it should stop. off the ignition. wait 5 seconde, put to pos II, pump the throttle 5 times till the MIL flashes, wait for another 2 minutes and crank for 20sec or till it starts, which ever is first. Chris Quote
T1G UP Posted January 4, 2009 Author Posted January 4, 2009 Thanks chaps, i'll do it right now! Quote
T1G UP Posted January 4, 2009 Author Posted January 4, 2009 OK have drained off that seperator untill empty, cleand the sediment out of the cap and refitted. Light stays on for 3 secs then goes off, oil and bat light stay lit. NO pump running.....won't start? Quote
T1G UP Posted January 4, 2009 Author Posted January 4, 2009 For got to add that the car is down the drive, ie sloping down toward the engine. Quote
T1G UP Posted January 4, 2009 Author Posted January 4, 2009 all good i'm afraid, fuse is a 10amp no.6? in the line, relay pulls in when ignition key is turned? Quote
T1G UP Posted January 4, 2009 Author Posted January 4, 2009 Just in case Western's description of the filters is not sufficient, the fuel filter and water sperator/sensor/drain is located in the RHS rear wheel arch. There is a metal cover over it. Once the cover is off you will see there is a sensor in the bottom of the filter, you need to remove that sensor to drain off any water. Beware they can shear off.The fuel pump should run when you turn on the ignition and stay on for some time (30 seconds) before they turn off. If you start the engine the fuel pump continues to run. If you change the filter you need to 'purge' the fuel system before you can start the engine. Chris And the purge routine doesn't work either Quote
GBMUD Posted January 4, 2009 Posted January 4, 2009 The finger is pointing at your fuel pump I am afraid. Chris Quote
T1G UP Posted January 4, 2009 Author Posted January 4, 2009 How do i get the pump out? i take it it's in the top of the tank? Quote
T1G UP Posted January 5, 2009 Author Posted January 5, 2009 Any clues as to how to get at the fuel pump? Quote
SteveG Posted January 5, 2009 Posted January 5, 2009 options are to drop the tank or cut an access panel in tub floor. IIRC DieselJim and GBMUD might have dimensions for you to cut panel. Steve Quote
T1G UP Posted January 5, 2009 Author Posted January 5, 2009 Think i'll have a go at dropping the tank. Is there a manual for the td5 90? the haynes is a bit poor, what about a cd/ web based info. Quote
smo Posted January 5, 2009 Posted January 5, 2009 Having dropped a tank before i'd go for cutting an access hole and then fitting a riveted ali panel back in its place once done Quote
Escape Posted January 5, 2009 Posted January 5, 2009 Before you take out the tank, try and make sure the pump is to blame! When my pump died, the engine kept running, albeit with a lot less power. I actually sat in the car, engine running, with the fuelpump fuse in my hand! Quote
T1G UP Posted January 5, 2009 Author Posted January 5, 2009 Before you take out the tank, try and make sure the pump is to blame!When my pump died, the engine kept running, albeit with a lot less power. I actually sat in the car, engine running, with the fuelpump fuse in my hand! Thanks for that.....please read the thread Quote
T1G UP Posted January 5, 2009 Author Posted January 5, 2009 Having dropped a tank before i'd go for cutting an access hole and then fitting a riveted ali panel back in its place once done One of the reasons for dropping the tank is to check all the wiring as i think shaun has moved the tank to weld in the rear tray...hoping for a loose connection maybe! £266+VAT for a new one! Quote
smo Posted January 5, 2009 Posted January 5, 2009 The wiring goes straight into the top of the tank so you can check that by cutting a hole - its entirely your choice mate but i know what i'd do, bear in mind diesel weighs similar to water @ approx 1Kg/Litre so even with a bit in it the tank becomes heavy!!! Quote
SteveG Posted January 5, 2009 Posted January 5, 2009 £266+VAT for a new one! try phoning local dealer, price is normally around £200 inc mark from a dealer. Steve Quote
crazyfarmerboy Posted January 5, 2009 Posted January 5, 2009 i would also go for cutting the hole in the tun. once you lpate it and put a mat or carpet back you won't even notice it. I cut a couple of holes in my series Tub to weld the top of the outriggers. cheers and good luck Quote
ciderman Posted January 5, 2009 Posted January 5, 2009 try phoning local dealer, price is normally around £200 inc mark from a dealer.Steve Yep Marcus give Pete a ring at Christian autos ,Kingswood ,Bristol , Ive had about three genuine pumps off him to date and they were IIRC £180 each ., The last one had a Bearmach sticker on a Land Rover genuine pump , There was a batch of bad pumps a couple of years ago but they should have all been superseeded by now . One thing to do before you change the pump , check the feed and earth at the multi plug to determin the pump has failed , But as Chris has already said , The finger is pointing towards the pump . Quote
T1G UP Posted January 6, 2009 Author Posted January 6, 2009 Ok sounds like a good idea, pump price came from Hunters in bristol...my local LR dealer i suppose. The reason i wanted to take the tank out is to check that i have no swarf in there! When you see the pics of my new rear tub you'll see what i mean. There was a bit in the neck when i collected it, just wondering if there was some more that went in so i'd like to swill it out. I'll give christian auto's a bell, running out of time this week as i'm off to bloody cornwall now! Any diimensions of where to cut the hole? Quote
Escape Posted January 6, 2009 Posted January 6, 2009 Thanks for that.....please read the thread I did read the thread, hence my advice to double check before you take out the tank! If my Td5 wil start and run without a fuel pump, I'd say there is something else wrong with yours. As for dimensions, see here: http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopi...539&hl=situ Quote
GBMUD Posted January 6, 2009 Posted January 6, 2009 When I bought my pump it was cheaper at T H Whites in Wooton Basset than Bearmach in Swinedon. Chris Quote
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