Steve 90 Posted January 5, 2009 Posted January 5, 2009 As I suspected it looks like im going to need a remote oil filter as there is an issue with the std filter and the axle. Ive seen some take off plates that replace the oil pump housing and relief valve which look neat but im not sure how the oil cooler fits with this. So does the oil cooler just go in series with the oil filter????? As in, Pipe from oil pump housing to filter then to cooler then back to block??? All the ones ive delt with in the past have had a thermostatic valve on the cooler take off's but I assume this isn't needed and only an aid to faster warm up's. So what are people using and how have they piped it up to include the oil cooler? Cheers. Steve. Quote
missingsid Posted January 5, 2009 Posted January 5, 2009 As I suspected it looks like im going to need a remote oil filter as there is an issue with the std filter and the axle. Ive seen some take off plates that replace the oil pump housing and relief valve which look neat but im not sure how the oil cooler fits with this.So does the oil cooler just go in series with the oil filter????? As in, Pipe from oil pump housing to filter then to cooler then back to block??? All the ones ive delt with in the past have had a thermostatic valve on the cooler take off's but I assume this isn't needed and only an aid to faster warm up's. So what are people using and how have they piped it up to include the oil cooler? Cheers. Steve. Hi Steve, I use a Mocal Remote Filter Head and a MG type low profile adapter. Here is a link to the Merlin Motorsport page. Marc Quote
ciderman Posted January 5, 2009 Posted January 5, 2009 Hi Steve,I use a Mocal Remote Filter Head and a MG type low profile adapter. Here is a link to the Merlin Motorsport page. Marc Steve Im sure thats the set up I have on an old 3.5 thats kicking about the yard ,It has the filter housing and pipes , Ring me tomorrow and I will have a look and get some pics Quote
Turbocharger Posted January 5, 2009 Posted January 5, 2009 I'm not a V8 type but if you're just short of room (instead of "it's actually touching") then I've heard tell of Robin Reliant filters fitting but being much shorter. Might help? Quote
Phil Hancock Posted January 6, 2009 Posted January 6, 2009 We had an issue with a V8 filter fouling the front diff in a 6 pot, IIRC i fitted a Lister ST, TS,. TL, TR, TX series engines oil filter, its only about 2 1/2" long and a smaller diameter than a std V8 filter. Quote
muddy Posted January 6, 2009 Posted January 6, 2009 By reducing the size of the filter do you reduces its ability to filter or its lifetime? Giving that the truck will see fairly harsh use i wouldnt want to be reducing the oil filtration. Hope that makes sense, probably doesnt, mumble mumble... Will. Quote
zim Posted January 7, 2009 Posted January 7, 2009 Steve, I used to run a normal mocal sandwich plate, but managed to smash this up with my diff. I then got a plate which goes where the old filter take off point is - bottom item on this page if i remember correctly - http://www.thinkauto.com/cgi-bin/sh000001....tml%23aPC1#aPC1 You fit your pressure relief valve into this as well, making sure the bore is nice n smooth.... Then as per a normal take off you have an input and a return, which you take to your filter somewhere in your engine bay. This takes up the least amount of space out of all the systems. I'll be going to the workshop in a bit, so will see if i can get a picture of it... Gord Edit, i've just reread your post...and it's actually about coolers....doh.... i don't run one on mine, but i'd find a way of a thermo switch...i'd put money on the guys from thinkauto having something to sort you out, very helpful, and as far as i know they manufacture the mocal stuff. Quote
zim Posted January 7, 2009 Posted January 7, 2009 From page 22 on their catalogue see the attached picture.... Their catalogue can be downloaded here : http://www.thinkauto.com/acatalog/Catalogue_Request.html G Quote
missingsid Posted January 7, 2009 Posted January 7, 2009 I presume Steve will read these comments some time? Marc. Quote
JST Posted January 7, 2009 Posted January 7, 2009 i would of thought so, he normally does, expect hes tied up with work Quote
missingsid Posted January 7, 2009 Posted January 7, 2009 Cheers, Just want to know if he has got the answer he needs or not yet? Marc, PS I will try to be more patient Quote
ciderman Posted January 7, 2009 Posted January 7, 2009 I spoke to Steve yesterday about the remote housing I had , It was the sandwich type and this still wouldnt have given the desired clearance , No doubt Steve will be along to answer , But he has been busy of late . Quote
Orgasmic Farmer Posted January 7, 2009 Posted January 7, 2009 I was over his workshop yesterday. He has already taken on board the comments here and has bought an remote filter housing but is already looking to modify it for best results. I am sure sure he will share his thoughts we has a mo. Quote
Steve 90 Posted January 8, 2009 Author Posted January 8, 2009 Hi sorry guys. Yes the info is excellent and just what I need. I have been keeping a sneaky eye on the thread but things are so busy at present I tend to only be able to find time to check on stuff while multi tasking, Making replies a little difficult. Damn work, It gets in the way of everything! :angry2: Im a poor typer and trying to write a reply while on the phone ordering bits just doesn't work :lol: So thanks guys, info was spot on, The links to the pages for the cooler setup were very interesting. Ive got a take off plate but 90 deg elbows were going to make it all a bit close with the axle so Im now waiting for some Banjo bolts to arrive which I hope will give plenty of clearance. I'll post some pics as soon as I have it sorted. Quote
Steve 90 Posted January 9, 2009 Author Posted January 9, 2009 Right, here it is. Take of plate with the normal swept 90 deg unions was still a bit on the tight side. I really wanted to Keep the motor as low as possible so needed something else. Yet again the Nice people at Merlin Motorsport had what I needed in the post straight away. So I got all the clearances sorted and half way through the engine mounts. Then need to get everything plumbed in. Thanks Guys. Steve. Quote
landmannnn Posted January 9, 2009 Posted January 9, 2009 The mg one is much lower profile I rember buying a new one once, the cost still pains me Quote
Steve 90 Posted January 9, 2009 Author Posted January 9, 2009 The mg one is much lower profile I rember buying a new one once, the cost still pains me Mmm, It certainly does. Any idea what sort of money they fetch? Are they still available? Quote
ciderman Posted January 10, 2009 Posted January 10, 2009 Steve try these , http://www.moss-bristol.co.uk-a.googlepages.com/home Quote
Monster Posted January 15, 2009 Posted January 15, 2009 Mmm, It certainly does. Any idea what sort of money they fetch? Are they still available? I think i have one of these on my V8 i removed recently. Used though. I also have a inline thermostat that i never fitted. Also a few hydraulic fittings to join it all together. (all 1/2UNF) If interested give me a shout I will check and send a pic. I can post to you. Cheers. Quote
gonewestnz Posted September 27, 2014 Posted September 27, 2014 My 90 has done extremely low miles since V8 installed so oil is clear I have just got a Mocal remote and was wondering how much oil I would loose swapping the filter without draining the sump first, I figure about a filters worth or am I going to make a mess of the driveway? What is best way to pre charge the longer pipes and filter or should I just fit it turn the engine a couple of times and check the dip stick? Never fitted one before but as my filter has a dent from diff hitting it thought it would be a good idea. Quote
Team Idris Posted September 28, 2014 Posted September 28, 2014 You'll lose a filter housings worth. Fill the engine to the high mark after fitting and start it, but don't rev at all until it puts the light out. The engine will run at steep angles off road so even a bit below the low mark it will be fine on the flat. You could back fill the delivery hose, but what if your pour some grit into it? Better to let the engine fill it all up. Quote
gonewestnz Posted September 28, 2014 Posted September 28, 2014 Thanks Team Idris pretty much what I thought but wanted to make sure so much appreciated, time to get my overalls on. Quote
gonewestnz Posted September 28, 2014 Posted September 28, 2014 Fitted the Mocal filter relocation plate today and the only place the filter head could go was on the top of the chassis on the near side. This means the filter will now be upside down as the thread on the plate is pointing up. I brought a Mahle OC261 filter but can't find out any where if it has a no return valve. Have read lots of blogs and technical features and the consensus seams to be a non return valve is a good idea when the filter is fitted upside down. Does anyone have any recommendations of a suitable filter ? I have read a useful blog where a guy says when changing upside down filters on planes and cars he has learnt if you drill a small hole in top of the filter the pressure is relieved and the oil drains back in to the sump making it less messy to remove when replacing. Quote
FridgeFreezer Posted September 29, 2014 Posted September 29, 2014 Just seen this thread crop up, worth pointing out that the low-profile MG-type housings are NOT suitable for cross-bolted blocks (4.0 & 4.6), guess how I found that one out... They should be available from Merlin Motorsport, Real Steel, or Think Automotive though. Quote
Team Idris Posted September 29, 2014 Posted September 29, 2014 In theory it still can't drain, because it's sealed. It would have to glub out. Also, you don't have to completely fill a new filter with the pump oil before you get oil pressure if it points up, as it will come out as soon as it is high enough in the can to cover the exit. (if that barely makes sense, I can't write any better than that, I'm on my literary limit ) But my main reason for liking downhill pointing filters is the dirt sits in the bottom. Plus you can pre fill them. Having said that, mine is sideways and mounted in the inner wing, just behind the front panel, next to where the headlight would sit. You could tap the housing for a drain tap? That would be cool What if it opens by accident you may ask? Well, I see the neat fix is a blank plug. Remove plug, open tap, drain system. I don't know if there is a single drain-back valve solution for this, as it can drain back on either side of the filter through the crank or the pump? I just used to let it get on with it at start up. It'll depend how good your tappits are as well. Minepumped down fast. Not that it is any help at all, but this is why I like my dry sump, as I can loosen the belt and prime it by hand if it has stood for a few weeks. It saves my worry Quote
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