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PTO winch install


miketomcat

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can anyone post up some pictures of pto winch instalation as i'm thinking about fitting one to 45 i've a winch and a pto but no shafts. if poss would like pics of whole setup just so i can work out where it's supposed to go and if i've got room to fit it

many thanks mike

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Darthdicky is currently on walkabout! If anyone is interested currently in New zealand the last I heard. He left last april and not sure when we are expecting him back! He travelled overland from London to Darwin, that part of the journey can be found here http://richwatson.blogspot.com/ but the rest he hasn't blogged yet I dont think.

Sorry for the off topic mike.

But basically you will want a PTO guard or to rotate the PTO clockwise.

Normal route, mounts to the underside of the transfer box and then onto the sump. The shaft go to the block side of the exhaust. Then carry forward to another mount on the front cross member. 4 uj's in total I think and 3 bearings and 1 sliding joint. I will try and dig out some pictures for you. But Les Brocks example maybe better for you as he clocked the PTO and recessed the winch.

Ok can't find any pictures on my computer, think they ae all at home so wont be able to acess them.

But there are 2 flaws with it that I can remember. The centre section of the exhaust is in the way so was removed and a straight through put on and the steering damper need to be dropped down so it clears the shaft, as shown in this picture. But is more exposed and hence I bent it and it snapped off, so not running without a steering damper till I get round to fixing it.

post-550-1233002849_thumb.jpg

And this may help slightly

post-550-1233003068_thumb.jpg

Cheers

Jon

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Mike,

I fink yonks back I posted a Mech PTO Fitting guide on the tech forum ?

Also there are a HUGE range of differing kits, each Model and even engine / year specific,

most people - even whe they buy one "Complete" find it doesn't fit.

The Superwinch UJs are F silly money, and the rods which have nothing more than a woodruff key cut in them even sillier

when I cut up the hybrid I also sold most of my bits n bobs / spares, but can hekp with some cheap alternatives :)

Basicaly on the hybis things were like a mouses ear, so I had 4 rods and assocaited UJs, also the Superwinch UJs are BIG OD wise, so

I did the following which worked V well.

I bought a load of 19mm solid rod, and a number of Range Rover Steering UJs, these have a spline teeth on the inside of them and a cross bolt.

I then cut the rods to length, lathed the 19mm down to be a tight fit in the UJ and then drilled through the solid rod, shoving in a 12.9 bolt as a lock and drive unit was thus borne, in all the time I had it I never ever had props with breakages, and only had to replace a couple of UJs :), and as all were the same (not all the superwinch one are - differing lengths / options) I could carry spares which would replace all / any Broken UJ. Also no silly wodddruff keys to fall out or even sillier grub screws, in all rods and rr UJs and crossed drilled and bolted = bulet proof :) You only need 2 superwinch UJs 1 for the winch end (has to connect to the winch wooddruff key etc and one simialrly for the PTO drive shaft output. I have some where the UJ Hardy spicer part number itself, which is about £12 vs S£perw£nchs £s :lol:, and thus you could buy a knackered SW UJ and replace the centres if your missing them.

I made a slider joint, using a lump of hexagonal bar, lathed round at the end then fed pinned and welded to the 19mm rod, I made the "Female" part from strips of 10 x 12mm strips, held in palce with tape over the hex bar, tack welded and then welded up bit by bit, then some serious noise later in the lathe saw that rounded off for some balance :lol:

On the issue of the slider many people fit it in the wrong place, it has to be in the part of the drive train that can move, the winch is fixed, and the engine and box and PTO are also solid so that "Lump" moves en mass, to and from the winch, which end you shove it on it up to you but I connected the bracket and slider to the GBox TB Engine lump, and the slider then moved as this lot moves.

On the PTO it hangs down, BIG Timey. As mine was alreay a fitting nightmare I simplay lay under the Hybrid and viewed the options for rods and UJs back from the front to the rear, and then at the rear redrilled the mounting holes for the PTO into the Rear box to suit, this also had the benefit of rotating more upright, which gave the all important ground clearances too, with the PTO bottom in the end being higher than the lowest point of the chassi, the oil feed still worked and again no issues.

To engage I did a small mod on the pull push rod to engage / disenege rotating the PTO only moves the lever a small amount :)

Centre bearings I used a BSL unit, cheaper than Superwinch, again I used the same unit for all then spares became 1 for anywhere, and used one with a 19mm ID and seled for life - forget greasable ones they down last as long as the SFL ones :)

Hope this helps,

Nige

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525 - that may be the manual I shoved it there, nice winch

Be carefull with this winch, the fairlead from memory holds the 2 end together, so if you unbolt it support the winch or the end falls off

<cough> now how exactly would I know that :rolleyes:

The PTO although there are a couple of variants its the gearbox it fits really so hopefully you'll have an LT230 version :)

in the back of the PTO is sometimes either 2 plates which have a shear pin in it (these will go ping at the least appropraite time :lol: ) the winch locks but the drive to the PTO is severved, these pins are avaikable in differing breakage points, all IMHO too low, many here who have these types will often shove a specially calibrtaed bent manky bolt in instead (anyone that fits) then forget its there, it HUGELY increases the pull, but the shear point in then most likely the internal chgain in the PTO so carry a Motorbike spares one with split links etc

The other type is a "Clutch" (bodge) that clicks as the setting set for is reached, similarly the to type above at the worst poss moment <cough> it has been known for some people <cough> to weld these up, or drill a hole and fit a manky bolt mod as above :lol:

Nige

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Mike...for the bits have a chat with the Defender Centre...they had a variey of shafts etc lying around when I was fitting mine (but this was 2 years ago) and they are very helpful.

Did your PTO come with a spacer? I found that I had to use the one on the back of the transfer box where the blanking plate is due to LR build tolerances (!) rather than the one that came with the PTO - thickness difference was massive.

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If you clock the pto you can get away with one straight shaft with a uj on each end,

i just used a support bearing in the center of the shaft mounted of the belhousing bolts, to cut down on whip on the shaft.

I made my own shafts out of 3/4 solid bar with the ends keyway'd to suit the uj's.

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