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Centre diff-lock shenanigans


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Not sure whether this one would be better in the RR forum, but here goes anyway!!

The centre diff-lock on our RR is not very willing to engage! I've recently refilled the transfer and gear boxes with the relevant oils, but this has made no difference whatsoever!! It just means that the lever wiggles more freely!!

Getting between high and low ratios is fine and it stays in without any fuss, but diff-lock is a right b###er to find!

It does eventually go in and stay in, but after a fight and several tries!

Just wondering if this would be caused by any obvious problems, or could it just be lack of use that has led to it being obstinate!!

:P Feel free to stop us and fix it if you are going to Wales this weekend!! :P

Cheers Guys!!

Adrian

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As suspected!! Probably full of Slindon sand as well as road muck from the last 19 years!!

I'll be on my back getting an eye full of c##p again then!!

Please remember that kiddies access this forum so refrain from discussing your unusual sexual practices here. :ph34r:

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The diff lock lever does not positively engage the difflock. The lever pushes a spring, then the spring engages the locking dog when the teeth line up.

If the diff lock switch is adjusted down too far or siezed, the spring will not push the locking dog to the lock position, even if the lever is right across.

Rover changed the linkage on the side of the gearbox to a cheaper and much nastier version on later models. The early ones had a cast link with a reasonable pivot arrangement. The later one is pressed from flat steel and the pivot arrangement is cr&p. If they are not ajusted correctly, or are worn, there is too much lost motion in the link and pivot to engage the diff lock.

Just some things to look at while cleaning and lubricating down there.

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Lub is always an issue & I agree with Bush the later mechanisms were pretty girly, sorry Hilly :o

Depends what box you have, I will assume 5 spd, the short sticks have two adjustments, that much I am sure of, you have to get both of them right and it takes quite a bit of fiddling between the two to get a slick movement & engagement. Much the same applies to 4 spd auto's.

The long sticks are a bit simpler & more robust with the lever being rear mounted in relation to the gear lever.

R380 & 3 spd auto's, I can't remember.

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