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200tdi valve guide trouble??


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Hi there, I'm a brand new member with a problem! Just got hold of a set of new valve guides for my 200tdi engine. Didn't expect any problems because all part numbers corresponded, but the valve guides LGJ100880 made in Oct 08 are about 0.3mm narrower and no chance of getting the existing valve stems in?

Has anyone else suffered the same problem, or is it just a freak failing of the manufacturers?

Obviously have to look at what I could have done wrong first, but all part no.s match and specifications of valve stem are all ok. Saying that, my valves stamped part no. has a suffix m, couldn't find any related suffix on part searches.

Please help

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once fitted they need reaming to suit the valve stem size. have a read of these attachments from the 200Tdi section of the Defender workshop manual.

Just goes to show, when you've got the right manual at hand, and not some botched example purchased from ebay on cd-rom. Thank you. I'll start scouring for a reel good reamer!

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Any local engineering company should be able to ream the guides for beer money. Just take the head and a valve with you.

Les.

Thanks for the tips everyone, I took the block earlier, to get inspected at the local motor refurb place in Helsingborg, whom embarrassingly said it looked like it had come straight out of the factory and stop being such a pedant. They did inspect the camshaft bearings properly and were generally very helpful.

I would like to ream the guides myself, and learn a trick or two. This is all a bit educational for me, and every step I can achieve on my todd is one more thing learned. Saying that, a lump of metal that won't start won't be much good either:-)

Does anyone know the dimensions of service tool LRT12-515? This is the spacer section to gain the right height for the guides. Did notice on the strip down that the underside of the guides was only just showing through the head. Is there a certain amount of tolerance built in?

That is to say already been on the net and ordered a 8mm reamer. 7.96mm valves, leaves 0.02mm either side. Tight but not too tight I hope. Did find a 7.98 reamer, but I think that was a machine piece, not the longer hand reamer I ordered.

I have the luxury of a kiln with thermometer and can heat the head up to the right temp to push in or out the guides. Hope the oil left in the kiln doesn't do to much damage to the next firing though!

On a different note, does anybody with knowledge of the oil pump and pressure relief valve on a 200tdi seen deep striations in the 'plunger' part, where the channel back up to the pump meets. I've also noticed slight beveling on what was the top side of the plunger end face?

Could this be a leaking plunger or just the expected 'serviceable' condition? I don't think I can buy just the plunger part as the rest is alright.

Just to say, really enjoying having people out there to share with. This has been a bit of a minefield, but loving every minute of it.

Thanks!

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Since you don't live that far away, try UK Parts. He would be able to help you. ;) Veberöd, I think, but not sure...

Sorry Lars couldn't find anything on hitta.se. Don't suppose you know any more about the location? I did find though, a place called motorrenova in Helsingborg. Huge lorry engine service place, and a little bit closer for me. I'll be trying to do the guides at home.

Thanks for the help though. ;)

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I don't think I can buy just the plunger part as the rest is alright.

It is part of the oil pump assembly, plunger LR part number is ETC4880 click the part number for a supplier in UK.

On a different note, does anybody with knowledge of the oil pump and pressure relief valve on a 200tdi seen deep striations in the 'plunger' part, where the channel back up to the pump meets. I've also noticed slight beveling on what was the top side of the plunger end face?

would expect that to be wear marks as the plunger moves in the channel, maybe worth polishing with fine wet & dry emery paper to remove them. or even better replace it see above link :D

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I wouldn't try to ream a valve guide myself. Alignment is critical and if you get it even slightly wrong - the valve head will be out of line with the seat. If an oil pump component is worn I would replace the whole thing - especially if the body of the pump is involved.

Fair play to your engineers for being honest about the block. It's a rare thing nowadays.

Les.

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