Jump to content

Galvanised Bulkhead Pointers


Recommended Posts

Gents,

I have just got my bulkhead back from the galv shop and I took down a note of all the changes I had to make to get the new TD5 bulkhead (I bought about two years) converted as close to the original 90 as possible so that I wouldnt have to disturb the galving.

It is by no means a composite list or set of instructions and I have taken the assumption that you have the old bulkhead for comparison and a new bulkhead ready for fitting.

For galving I drilled a few extra holes here and there in obvious places to assist with allowing the air to escape when dipped but as the whole new bulkhead had been dipped in some carp black paint from the manufacturer I think there is sufficient vent wholes already in place.

The reason I went for galving was longevity but what really drove it on was the rust tracking already taking place under the carp black paint. I had the bulkhead shot blasted and galved for £100 all in.

A couple of things I did notice on picking up the bulkhead was the extra weight after galvanising, a subtle amount of distortion and a lot of lag from the dipping process. This may be normal but my paintshop said it looked like a pretty carp job and that they have a bit of work getting the visible bits nice and tidy for painting. These things are unavoidable and accept this as an extra cost.

So the list of the things that need to be changed are as below but there may be a few odd things I have missed but for anyone looking for a starter for 10 this should help :D

Dont forget to open the pictures whilst reviewing the list, 1 through to 10 are for the front and 10 through to 14 are for the rear. :)

1)

Wing Securing Brackets. The TD5 bulkhead doesn’t have open access to place a bracket through from behind and hence they use an M6 rivnut instead. I have drilled an additional hole for an extra M6 rivnut to be inserted for extra strength.

2)

Bonnet Bumpstops. The TD5 bulkhead doesn’t have any holes but I have added them in for good measure for my 90.

3)

Central Loom. The TD5 bulkhead obviously runs its wiring differently and I had to cut a 1 ¾” hole plus the four extra smaller holes for the plastic cover that sits over the aperture.

4)

Fuel Filter. There are a few holes in the bulkhead for using self tappers but I wanted to use M8 rivnuts and hence drilled the correct size holes to allow retro fitting the rivnuts after galving.

5)

Steering Column Securing Bolts. These holes are in the correct place but no rivnuts fitted (M8).

6)

Fan Assembly Securing Bolts (two locations). I had to fit M8 rivnuts prior to galving so that I could bolt up and fit the fan assembly to allow me to drill the appropriate holes for securing the lower fan assembly support bracket (notice the extra 6) at the middle of the passenger footwell).

7)

Wiring and Cable Glands. The glands are usually secured with self tappers but I have opted to fit rivnuts (it’s not a fetish honest :ph34r: )

8)

mmm nothing for eight….. :blush:

9)

Tunnel Saddle. I married up the tunnel that fits the bulkhead and used it as a template for the correct saddle shape and also locating holes for the plastic inserts. I drilled these out first and then used a square file to open them to the correct size and shape using an old insert for reference.

10)

Windscreen Wiper. Similarly as with the wing securing brackets the TD5 bulkhead isn’t open at the front to fit the bracket that the 90 wiper motor secures to. In addition the TD5 bulkhead comes with a different type of wiper arrangement and hence has a large square piece of metal prewelded over the top left vent looking forward. As I wanted to fit my original motor I ground off the old plate and then fitted two (M6?) rivnuts in place of the bracket.

11)

Vent Meshes. The TD5 bulkhead has mesh prewelded across the two vents rather than the two separate fitted aluminium items on the 90. I ground both welded meshes off and used the 90 meshes as a template to drill the numerous securing holes that will eventually allow the 90 vents to be riveted in place.

12)

Plastic Securing Piece. There is one extra square securing piece on the 90. I have drilled this out but didn’t have a small enough square file to open up but will do when I fit the interior.

13)

Lower Facia Securing Screws. The 90 has two rivnuts located here for securing the lower facia (heater box) to the bulkhead. I think the originals may be M5 but I will be fitting M6 (as I don’t have any M5)

14)

Wiper Arm Access. As mentioned above the TD5 uses a different mechanism and you may note the three brackets at the top that are pronounced more than on the 90. I have decided to leave these in place as it looks as if the top of the facia will secure to them with bolts rather than self tappers to the sides but if need be I will grind them off if it doesn’t work.

The centre bracket does foul where the wiper mechanism locates and I have cut clearance hole through to allow access.

post-1366-1234125821_thumb.jpg

post-1366-1234125873_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 year later...

A great post as I am going through similar work (not galvanising tho). I am struggling to get M8 rivnuts into the holes for the fan, the holes seem way bigger but would probably need propper tool for anything bigger than M8, anyone done some other work to get nuts in place?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 10 months later...
  • 1 year later...

I used this thread when I did my one and all went well. There is also a bracket on the left when looking from the inside which obstructs the dash when you go and put that back together. Bracket is not shown on the pictures but if you have a td5 bulkhead you will see what I mean. Every thing else went well.

Very good and useful thread.

Ralf this was in tech under the list - cant remember what the list was called but it would be useful if that list of fixes and MOD could stay at the top of tech.

Hope you know what I am on about.......

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Two other considerations when galvanising bulkheads:

1) The bonnet hinge clasps can unfurl due to the heat,so need re-curling with a tool made of steel angle with a slot cut across one face to grip the hinge tab;

2) The vent flap hinges fill with zinc and will need clearing out with a drill or reamer, but this is difficult due to the proximity of the hinge line to the bulkhead. I have heard that holes like this and captive nut threads can be protected with silicone sealant, to be easily removed later, though I haven't heard it from any experts.

I wish I had known about these before I bought my galvanised bulkhead, or even before I had painted and fitted it!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Snagger,

Yes I encountered the filled flap hinges, I had originally thought it possible to heat with a torch and blow through with an airline prior to painting (yes lots of safety aspects to deal with there) but i missed the boat and it was painted before I knew it.

I finally had to drill out the ends with drills, not pretty and the bulkhead was painted fully at this point. :o To protect the paint placed a thick layer of rubber sheeting over the bulkhead when drilling and oiled the rubber so the chuck didnt burn through.

A bit stressfull at the time (watching the chuck working away at the rubber) but it didnt take that long to do.

The good thing is Zinc is soft and the Zinc only seemed to "clog" more at one end due to the way it was hung when dipping.

HTH to someone.

Cheers

G

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I used this thread when I did my one and all went well. There is also a bracket on the left when looking from the inside which obstructs the dash when you go and put that back together. Bracket is not shown on the pictures but if you have a td5 bulkhead you will see what I mean. Every thing else went well.

Very good and useful thread.

Ralf this was in tech under the list - cant remember what the list was called but it would be useful if that list of fixes and MOD could stay at the top of tech.

Hope you know what I am on about.......

That would be the bracket for the 2002-on Td5 wiper motor, it needs removing if you're fitting a pre-2002 dashboard as you say. Only tack welded on in four places, so a doddle to take off.

Two other considerations when galvanising bulkheads:

1) The bonnet hinge clasps can unfurl due to the heat,so need re-curling with a tool made of steel angle with a slot cut across one face to grip the hinge tab;

2) The vent flap hinges fill with zinc and will need clearing out with a drill or reamer, but this is difficult due to the proximity of the hinge line to the bulkhead. I have heard that holes like this and captive nut threads can be protected with silicone sealant, to be easily removed later, though I haven't heard it from any experts.

I wish I had known about these before I bought my galvanised bulkhead, or even before I had painted and fitted it!

Re. Vent flap hinges, would you say it would be worth fitting a long bolt or something to them, or even an old vent hinge pin, for the galvanising process? Then removing once completed?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 5 months later...

Old thread revival. The wiper motor bracket above, you say needs removing, is this just to fit the old wiper motor or is it actually a problem when it comes to fitting an older style dash? Reason I ask is I'm doing this at the minute and have bought a td5 style wiper motor, but seem to be missing some fittings for this, but I'm now wondering if I'm then going to have problems fitting the dash? Cheers

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Sorry mikec I can not help with that one as my Defender is a 1995. I bought a threaded riveting tool which helped a lot with most things. The bulkhead is double skinned there the wiper motor fits so you can not just drill and bolt.

Frax

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

 Share

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We use cookies to ensure you get the best experience. By using our website you agree to our Cookie Policy