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body lift


gelf

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If you guys don't have legal issues with the tires needed to be covered by arches, then the EASIEST mod to do and the most cost effective (as he'll need to modify his drivetrain for the 35s unless its for looks) is the cut those wheelarches away - it'll cost you 5 USD to get the "u" black plastic protectors for the doors and conceal your cutting...you can easily shave off 2-3" from the aluminum...

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Guest Fingers Mclean
I was running 37x14.5 tires with an OME 3" lift, 2" body lift and a lot of cutting - its doable...

I have just done a 3" spring lift and a 2" body lift on my two door discovery..I now have 35" tyres fitted

If you what info just PM me and i will give you te run down ;)

http://members.mud-club.com/profiles/Finge...clean/gallery/1

cheers Ali

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Guest Fingers Mclean
Hey Ali,

Thanks for the offer, but I'm on 42" right now (work in progress) B)

Front_Stance.sized.jpg

KIN HELL !!!!!!!!!! :wub: thats going to be great LOL

1020087265eb08858cfb3cd9a374c8979b19e8150c4588a36a932fca.jpg

Heres mine next to a standard 200...The answer was more aimed at gelf...But i replied to yours Discodino...Whoops

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Guest Fingers Mclean
Please share! Im' kinda intersted too...

Cheers

Mark

2 inch Body lift instructions RR / Disco

The worst part and most time consuming part of the job had to be undoing all the nuts and bolt that had never been undone since new. Once that was done I had no problems. I used one hi-lift jack to raise the body. It was very simple to do, once all the bolts were undone(10 bolts hold the shell down and 4 bolts tie the rear seat belt mount and front floor to the chassis ) I put the jack under the sill just in front of the front door and jacked it up high enough to get most of the spacers in on one side, I then had to put the jack under the rear just to lift enough to get the very rear spacer in, I then repeated this on the other side.The main problems you come across is that you cant just put longer bolt through the holes, you have to remove the bushes and put the bolts through at an angle and then resettle the bushes back into place (sounds worse than it is to do ,when doing it you'll find it easier to picture what i mean)the only two bolts I couldn't put back in were the two rear ones as there is just not enough room so I put these up from the bottom but all were secured with nylock nuts so shouldn't be a problem.The only problem Ive encountered is that mines got a manual gearbox and the clutch pipe is a bit tight and could do with being replaced with a longer one.which ever side you do first you need to take the bolts out other wise they catch and the chassis lifts as well, leave the other sides bolts in so that the shell cant move side ways and extreme but possibly fall off the chassis.When we did my friends he used a hi-ab crane and as he picked up the shell it swung sideways by about 6" so I recommend leaving in some bolts.put one spacer and bolt in at a time and once through put the nut on just a couple of turns and it will stop you displacing the spacers if you need to lift a bit more.Don't forget to unclip your bumper end caps from the body and once the lift is complete loosen all the steering uj bolts and wiggle the steering wheel abit and then tighten the bolts back up.there are several floor supports that need some blocks and you need to drill two new holes for the top radiator mounts and thats about it. I had mine done for several months now and I use it as my daily drive and have had no problems what so ever and last weekend went greenlaning with no problems at all. hope that helps any more questions please ask or if anything isn't to clear in my description please ask

As for the kit you need 10 spacers + 4 extended tie bolts and you will also need to get some 10 3/8 unf x 6"(for 2" lift)

The above format was taken from another thread

300 Disco

I've done a body lift on my 300 Disco.

I've raised the body by 2". On the 300 there are ten mounting bolts . In addition, there are four body to chassis mounting places.

I fitted 2" steel spacers with longer nuts & bolts. Due to the additional length of the bolts, you have to mount some "up-side down" because you can't push them through the same way that they came out!! or use treaded bar.

For the body resting places, I used 2" steel blocks.

It easier if you have a ramp :huh: as you can undo all the bolts, hold the body up and drop the wheels, axles, etc, etc.

REMEMBER TO TAKE THE REAR BUMPER OFF 1ST

Points to note: radiator needs lifting,steering arm needs extending, steering pump fluid tank requires moving, possible fuel tank filler point needs extending, brake hoses need lengthening, headlights need adjusting, gear stick and high/low sticks need extending & bending.Also the bumpers are still sitting on the chassis so they will need to be lifted also..If you dont then there will be a 2" gap between the body and the bumper.

hope this helps :P:P

I have a few photos if you want to check them out

http://snap25.photobox.co.uk/032957598d065...6419170ffe7.jpg

http://snap20.photobox.co.uk/9425456745af0...db6fb5c042e.jpg

http://snap21.photobox.co.uk/72408109171a5...5fca04220f3.jpg

http://snap23.photobox.co.uk/9813233207c77...cd2d6c46a33.jpg

http://snap25.photobox.co.uk/39954388cb95b...7c1e6d9052a.jpg

http://snap21.photobox.co.uk/38784791f814e...25886e1d601.jpg

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