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Td5 Brakes Binding


diggerdog36!
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I have a 2000 Td5, its front left brake is binding. Ive changed the Caliper, Discs and pads. Ive checked the pipe for the delaminating problem.

If I press the brake and undo the hose to the caliper the wheel is still hard to turn. If I force back the caliper I can turn the wheel, but Ive had the caliper off and I can push the pistons back with my thumbs.

I have checked the slider pins, they move in and out really easily. I have no lights on the dash (AHD or TC) so I dont think its them playing up, it does it without the engine running.

What else could it be??

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Was it binding before changing caliper+disc+pads and you replaced those parts to solve the problem? Or is it the binding issue appeared after replacing the parts (if so, why did you replace them?)?

Yes, it was binding before I cganged the parts. But it didnt fix it! Which leads me to think I havent found the defective part yet!! It only leaves me with the guide pins and the caliper carrier!!!

Just wndered if there was anything I was overlooking??

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The reason it was binding before the replacement could be the same or could be different.

Take a look at the tutorial Les posted in the tech archive - http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=19371

I suggest to:

- make sure the carrier is clean, specially where the pads seat in it, as you see Les was doing in pic # 8.

- check that brake pads are not too long so they get stuck in the carrier (maybe file them a bit but not too much); if you suspect something is wrong with the pads try using the old ones and see how they go.

- clean the sliders (pins), although you say they're fine, pics # 9, 10, 11.

- when you put the caliper back in place, do it with the pistons pushed back and, after you tighten the bolts, make sure it can actually slide back and forth easily.

One other thing is maybe the carrier is bent or something, maybe from an accident or a rock temporarily stuck in there.

Anyway, after you put all the things back together and after you press the brake pedal, it should take like 3-4 wheel complete turns for the brake pads to be pushed back and the wheel to turn freely.

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Anyway, after you put all the things back together and after you press the brake pedal, it should take like 3-4 wheel complete turns for the brake pads to be pushed back and the wheel to turn freely.

I can barely turn the wheel by hand, never mind 3-4 turns!! Something is seriously rong somewhere!!

Just a question, Should the guide pins rotate in the carrier, if so, then why do they have 3 flats on them?

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Completely random thought and big guess.... but.... if there was a blockage (dirt??) in the brake line to this wheel, would it perhaps let brake fluid push the brakes on.... but not neccassarily let it retract?? Perhaps try renewing the brake fluid just in case? *grabs at straws*

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Yes, the pins can rotate in the carrier (when the caliper is missing or bolts not tightened).

They are flattened to reduce friction, prevent seizing and to minimize the piston effect (like when you try to pull/push a piston in a syringe but the opening where the needle goes is blocked).

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Completely random thought and big guess.... but.... if there was a blockage (dirt??) in the brake line to this wheel, would it perhaps let brake fluid push the brakes on.... but not neccassarily let it retract?? Perhaps try renewing the brake fluid just in case? *grabs at straws*

Cant be the pipe or dirt, if i remove the pipe completely i still cant turn the wheel, and its new fluid too!!!

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Apart from what I suggested 2 days ago:

1. Did you try with the old pads in?

2. Did you try with some other things acting as spacers instead of the brake pads (hard wood, rear brake pads, other vehicle make pads)?

3. Try with the caliper not on the carrier and using the new pads + old pad/pads (old pads acting as a spacer replacing the brake disc) and see if it's sticking.

4. Try using the pins (sliders) from the other side or get a new set.

5. Try using the carrier from the other side (they're not sided).

I'm still suspecting the brake pads get stuck in the carrier or the whole thing works as it should. Try to do all the things I suggested and you'll find what's wrong and what needs to be done.

I know that no matter the issue you have with the brakes I would be able to find the cause in less than an hour. I'm not aware of your knowledge level and experience in dealing with brake problems so in case you follow the steps I suggested and you come with nothing then I strongly suggest to seek qualified help.

One more thing. If you suspect caliper pistons still under hydraulic pressure after you release the brake pedal then don't undo the brake hose, use the bleeding screw.

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Right, Ive replace the carrier and pins, and its still the same!!

Here is the list of what Ive fitted new so far!!

Discs

Pads

Caliper

Carrier

Slider Pins

The only thing left to change that I havent already is the hose, although I have tested it for delamination.

Cipx2, to answer your question about my experience, I work in hydraulics, servicing aircraft brake units!!

Im pretty OK with hydraulic principals, but this has got me stumped, if you reckon you can find the problem in under an hour, I challenge you!!!

You are more than welcome to try and drink me out of tea/coffee!!!

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I'd really love to take the challenge and drink some English tea but I'm 1500 miles away from the nearest UK shore :)

The issue can be of:

1. hydraulic nature

2. mechanical nature.

To see which one of the two issues you're confronting with you have to eliminate the hydraulic issue (a bit like you attempted in the first place) like this:

a. with everything put back together and the break system carefully bled you then go and press the brake pedal hard (several times maybe) with engine off, ignition switch off, keys in your pocket (in other words, with no vacuum assistance and no electrickery running).

b. go back to the caliper and undo the bleed screw couple of turns and leave it undone (at which point you should asses the remaining pressure in the caliper, if any)

c. put the wheel back on (or use a crow bar but beware not to damage the threads on the wheel studs, or better a piece of wood)

d. rotate the wheel 3-5 complete turns

Results:

1. If, after 3-5 complete turns or sooner, the wheel starts to turn freely then the issue is not of mechanical nature (the bleed screw being undone, there's no hydraulic pressure in the caliper)

2. If, after these 3-5 turns, the wheel is still hard to turn, you hear and feel the pads grinding against the disc, then the problem is of mechanical nature.

So, please do the steps a through d exactly as I described them and tell me which of the two results, 1 or 2, you get.

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