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Twin Rear Shocks


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If you're in the area you're welcome to pop in for a look see, hopefully I'll have my motor at Frickley for the trial, I think I'm setting out with Matthew so we're going to try and give the motors a shake down prior to the Muddy Truckers so you can take a look then if you want to wait.

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I have rear shocks on the back of my 110. Twin shocks did make a huge difference when I traveled across Africa fully loaded. Most Safari companies in Kenya and Tanzania run them on their Safari Landrovers.

You need to get a pair of brackets for the axle and two standard rear mounts.

Photo's of the rear mounts after I replaced the back axle after getting back from Africa.

Quite a few supplier do them.

e.g. http://www.mailorder4x4.com/acatalog/BA_2162_LI.jpg

post-205-1234560875_thumb.jpg

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Have had twin rear shox on the rear of my overloaded disco :rolleyes: for about 4 years now and cansay its well worth the effort, not only to prevent failure on rough roads but helps keep a hevey body under control over tricky situations, less roll overs and smashed windows.

Set up can be made for very litle in a few hours all you need is a good fabricator and some steel.

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Hi Soutie, which shocks did you use on the back of your 110?

What is the best angle for the shocks? I can see an arguement for having the shocks verticals so that the main line of force is in the direction of the shock. Against that I can see possible problem with the shocks having to be postioned too far 'outboard' to avoid fouling the spring. Problem with leverage on bottom mount and where to locate top mount.

Hope that explanation makes sense.

Good point about the crush tube Mike. I will not be fabricating anything myself as my skills with a welder is even less then my skills with a set of spanners. There again I know a few people with the appropriate skills.

So any advice/guidance is appreciated.

Regards

Brendan

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Twin rears work very well esp on corrugations in high ambient as it spreads the work load , and thereby cuts down heat generation . I also use koni adjustable and run them softer than when used singly which also helps with work/heat build up and less jar at speed on corrugations , also they last a lot longer . I am intending to do same on front , when I get a round tuit :rolleyes:

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Hi Soutie, which shocks did you use on the back of your 110?

What is the best angle for the shocks? I can see an arguement for having the shocks verticals so that the main line of force is in the direction of the shock. Against that I can see possible problem with the shocks having to be postioned too far 'outboard' to avoid fouling the spring. Problem with leverage on bottom mount and where to locate top mount.

Hope that explanation makes sense.

Good point about the crush tube Mike. I will not be fabricating anything myself as my skills with a welder is even less then my skills with a set of spanners. There again I know a few people with the appropriate skills.

So any advice/guidance is appreciated.

Regards

Brendan

Brendan

Ring me

mike

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I have decarbon's all round. From what I understand the holes for the rear top mounts were already in the chassis. Crush tubes where fitted for the top mounts. (I did not fit them but Jim from Gigglepin (90SV) did, so might be worth asking him.

Peter

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Brendan, if you go vertical remember that you'll have to use longer stroke dampers than you do if inclined, and yes, the internal forces are less when vertically mounted thanks to the greater piston travel/amount of axle travel compared to an inclined damper.

As I mentioned on AULRO, a single Koni Raid would probably do the job well. (it's what they are designed for)

It has double the oil volume of a normal Koni Heavy Track, and no need for extra mounts.

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