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Progress pics of the new 'Force 9' differential


ashtrans
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Hi All,

We have for some time been working on a new super HD axle.

The diff is being made to fit the rover axle casing so you bolt on the diff, new shafts, open knuckles, CV's, stub axles, modified hubs and drive flanges. We still have some work to do but I thought I would post a few pics of the diff unit.

the diff spec is :

Ford 9" hypoid ring and pinion

High Pinion

4.11 ratio

ARB 35 spline

Nodular Iron housing (this prototype is ali)

force9d.jpg

force9c.jpg

force9a.jpg

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Looks interesting Dave, what is the steering lock going to be like with the knuckles as ive seen some setups (in pics from pirate 4x4) which get some crazy angles, much improved on our rover steering angles.

we have opted for CV's as opposed to UJ's as the landrover is constant 4 wheel drive so we are limited to 43 deg max but I don't this will be the limiting factor as those that may buy these will have big tyres which will be on the radius arms by then even with the increased track,

Excellent! Looking good Dave. Where's mine?????? Im ready to fit them!!! :D :D :D

How are the Knuckles coming along? And have you got any figures for the extra width/track of the axles yet?

Steve.

The knuckles are tack welded and looking good, will post photos next week, we will initially be adding 40mm each side to the width/track,

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Dave, the diff looks very nice! Will it still clear the stock diff pan? TBH I think you're right about steering lock especially once you factor in larger, wider tyres. We are not building tractors here :P

Are you planning to peg these diffs (as with the TruHi9)?

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Hi,

Steve, Knuckle photo :

force9h.jpg

force9g.jpg

Will, no they don't clear the stock pan, these R & P's foul and we have had to cut it off and will be welding a replacement on, future ones may not need this,

Tim, oiling has taxed us, initially a 'catcher' near the pinion to drip feed the pinion bearings, maybe a spiral 'flinger' as well if the catcher is not adequate. Have looked at incorporating a small pump like the gearboxes but can't see how we can fit one, can't say I'm looking forward to the lube testing, driving at 70 for an hour or until it goes bang !

Bathtub, only 2 of these CV's have ever broken and that was with 54's ! but I dare say you could manage it with 44's !

Sam, after a frantic half hour under a 90 this afternoon unfortunatly you are right, if the axle is on the bump stops we have about 1/4", may be OK but a bit too close for comfort, may have to add a little packing under the bump stops if this is a problem,

Dave

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Hi,

Sam, after a frantic half hour under a 90 this afternoon unfortunatly you are right, if the axle is on the bump stops we have about 1/4", may be OK but a bit too close for comfort, may have to add a little packing under the bump stops if this is a problem,

Dave

Mmmm, I may have some extra issues as the A frame is 7" longer on mine with the gear box moved back a long way (still using a 200Tdi 90 rear prop on a 100") so it could be tight. Where is it close Dave? Is it between the prop and the bracket for the A frame or the actual A frame? I may also have issues at the front as my Engine is such a long way back.

To be honest tho I'd happily put an extra inch on the bump stops for piece of mind in the axle department, A very small price to pay IMHO.

Excellent stuff Dave, Thanks.

Keep the updates coming.

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Dave, I also think you're really starting to leave the realm of predictable setups - you're standard Rover replacements are very good so it will only be people with big power (and so non LR engines & gearbox with non standard mounting positions) and / or big tyres who will be going down this route. They will probably have done other mods to the suspension too (longer A-frames, 4-link etc) so it might be an issue for some people even if it fits on a standard vehicle.

Steve, it might be worth tweaking the A-frame ball joint mounting position if you run into trouble. It seems like a nicer solution (albeit not as simple :P ) because, as Adrian said, you want to make sure you don't trash a diff / suspension link if you loose a bumpstop or spring.

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Dave, I also think you're really starting to leave the realm of predictable setups - you're standard Rover replacements are very good so it will only be people with big power (and so non LR engines & gearbox with non standard mounting positions) and / or big tyres who will be going down this route. They will probably have done other mods to the suspension too (longer A-frames, 4-link etc) so it might be an issue for some people even if it fits on a standard vehicle.

I don't think so Will, I know of quite a few people (infact more than I know with special builds) running heavily modified trucks but largely std parts as far as engine, drive train, suspension etc are concerned and also want to keep it that way but are in need of stronger axles.

Steve, it might be worth tweaking the A-frame ball joint mounting position if you run into trouble. It seems like a nicer solution (albeit not as simple :P ) because, as Adrian said, you want to make sure you don't trash a diff / suspension link if you loose a bumpstop or spring.

Totally agree with making sure they wont foul if you loose a stop. Any extending I do will me chassis side of the stop. Will look into other options but I have a feeling the problem will be between the prop and the bracket on the A frame cross member. Its all speculation at the moment tho so we will see what happens and deal with it when the time comes.

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Steve slightly related,

I extended the bumps stops by adding box section to the axle itself then if the rubber bit s goes AWOL the Shocks won't get destroyed on full compression.

I just welded on a section of box both sides. Not the nicest looking but functional.

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Tim,

Fill it to the right "new" level and there isn't an issue ;)

Did you get left out of the info?

Lara.

Great idea Dave!!

Am sure it will sell, specially if you make the diff case in 356-T6 or LM25TF Ally

Would also probably be stronger than cast iron too, and cheaper to cast!!

Good luck.

Lara

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Tim,

Fill it to the right "new" level and there isn't an issue ;)

Did you get left out of the info?

Lara.

Great idea Dave!!

Am sure it will sell, specially if you make the diff case in 356-T6 or LM25TF Ally

Would also probably be stronger than cast iron too, and cheaper to cast!!

Good luck.

Lara

the ptototype one is LM25TF, I was thinking this may not be strong enough but maybe it will be,

I would like the ali one as the diff ends up 1 KG lighter than the rover one,

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Hi Dave,

We have blocks, and heads etc cast in LM25TF that were originally cast iron, we have found them to be quite a bit stronger!!

Although we do make the mains caps out of billet 7075-T6 for racing use.

We have also done the same with one of the diffs on our race car that kept cracking and flexing when made of cast iron, In ally it was stronger, didn't crack and was lighter!

Good luck, Great project!

Lara.

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