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'Allmakes' T-seals on 200 & 300tdi crank cap


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Hi there, just got to replacing the main bearing shells after lots of checking and measuring. The block(200tdi)gasket pack I bought here in sweden was an allmakes product.

The T-seals that line inside the rear and widest bearing cap are not cork but a strange soft gritty rubber compound?

I've had a pig of a job getting the cap to slide in place. Don't want to slip at this stage.

Tried cutting the required amount off, but the rubber blunts a scalpel blade in about two seconds!

Should I try and find a genuine cork seal set or should I use the sealant(stc611) technique?

That is the squeezing sealant down the gaps where the seals should have been, and then quickly putting the ladderframe on.

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do you have the Defender workshop manual ? if not here's the section from that manual, the drawing shows 'cork' seals, last block gasket kit I bought was a Elring make & if you need a set of cork type seals, I still have them in as new condition, can post them over if you want them.

here they are :D

File0078.pdf

post-20-1234620192_thumb.jpg

Edited by western
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do you have the Defender workshop manual ? if not here's the section from that manual, the drawing shows 'cork' seals, last block gasket kit I bought was a Elring make & if you need a set of cork type seals, I still have them in as new condition, can post them over if you want them.

here they are :D

I found this article in an improvements section, and stripping my block showed the same technique? Sorry, I couldn't figure out how to send just the one page :unsure: But seeing all the workshop manuals from turbo diesels through to 300s it shows the use of cork?

I've got a selection of workshop manuals on cd-rom but have to fill in the blanks occasionally looking at old turbo diesel data and 300tdi data.

I am though very interested in the offer to get some new seals, as you're feeling so generous! Thanks very much ;) I take it we should start the bargaining process.

LR_1988_model_improvements.pdf

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I've used the rubber type in the past, and they are harder to fit/trim. The problem with cork is that it eventually shrinks, so will inevitably leak. The rubber type doesn't shrink, but goes rock solid. I would still use cork though, and I did with my 300TDi engine. Payen set has the cork type in it.

Les.

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My only reservation on the Hylosil is any air bubbles that my occur when it is injected, or will it force out all of the air?

A question I have, can you replace the t-seals while the engine and trans are in place or will this knacker the O-ring between the block and transmission adapter plate?

Cheers,

Chris

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