stuck Posted February 15, 2009 Share Posted February 15, 2009 Hi all, Have taken the RR on the road for the 1st time today following a 3" suspension lift (springs, dampers and radius arms changed), on the road I'm getting a bloody awful grinding noise. When I shuffled under the truck it was obvious that the front prop has been rubbing on the anti-roll bar, hence the noise! Question is how do I correct this? Is it just a case of making longer brackets for where the anti-roll bar attach to the body? Thanks in advance, Mick. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pux Posted February 15, 2009 Share Posted February 15, 2009 Hi all,Have taken the RR on the road for the 1st time today following a 3" suspension lift (springs, dampers and radius arms changed), on the road I'm getting a bloody awful grinding noise. When I shuffled under the truck it was obvious that the front prop has been rubbing on the anti-roll bar, hence the noise! Question is how do I correct this? Is it just a case of making longer brackets for where the anti-roll bar attach to the body? Thanks in advance, Mick. Easiest way is get rid of the ARB Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gelf Posted February 15, 2009 Share Posted February 15, 2009 seconded Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stuck Posted February 15, 2009 Author Share Posted February 15, 2009 Easiest way is get rid of the ARB Cheers Pux / Gelf Won't that make it a pig on the twisty stuff? (New springs are HD and don't give much) Will it go through the MOT without the anti-roll bar? I like your thinking but want to keep it legal. Mick. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bloomers Posted February 15, 2009 Share Posted February 15, 2009 Got no ARB's on mine not an issue for the MOT passes every time... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DrRob Posted February 15, 2009 Share Posted February 15, 2009 Got no ARB's on mine not an issue for the MOT passes every time... Ditto. Put HD springs on, took ARBs off and no difference in handling. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stuck Posted February 15, 2009 Author Share Posted February 15, 2009 Ditto. Put HD springs on, took ARBs off and no difference in handling. Superb, saves getting the MIG out! Thanks very much gents, will loose the ARB's B) Mick. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bishbosh Posted February 15, 2009 Share Posted February 15, 2009 Whilst I would agree that the way forwards is to remove the ARB, if you do want to retain it then all you need to do is make up some spacer plates to fit between the ARB bracket and the chassis mount. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pux Posted February 15, 2009 Share Posted February 15, 2009 Mine pass's all it's MOT with no problems and handles no differently. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tel Posted February 15, 2009 Share Posted February 15, 2009 loosing the arb will also give you a little more articulation so its a win win mine handles fine without them and im now on a 6" lift Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stuck Posted February 15, 2009 Author Share Posted February 15, 2009 loosing the arb will also give you a little more articulation so its a win win mine handles fine without them and im now on a 6" lift leads me on to another question I'm afraid! My kit has dislocation cones & + 2" braided S.S. brake hoses, with increased axle articulation surely these will be a weak point?! If I'm correct how long do the hoses need to be? Thanks again, Mick. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve_d Posted February 15, 2009 Share Posted February 15, 2009 Logic says that a 3" lift should have had +3" hoses or more. Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tel Posted February 16, 2009 Share Posted February 16, 2009 i have +2 hoses and i made longer brackets off the inner wing and 4" pieces of brake pie to put in line works fine for me Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
clbarclay Posted February 16, 2009 Share Posted February 16, 2009 Changing the springs to raise ride height doesn't directly change how far up/down the axle can more. The mounting position and length of the dampers is what affects the limits of axle movement and therefore brake line length. With vehicles like the RRC and discovery which have the brake lines mount to the body rather than the chassis, then a body lift will also directly affect brake line length. As tel says, you can extend the copper/steel brake lines as well as the flexible lines. I find that +4" flexible lines on a RRC is a bit to long for making sure they don't get rubbed, so extending the ridgid lines does have some advantages over longer flexible brake lines, including the cost. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stuck Posted February 16, 2009 Author Share Posted February 16, 2009 Thanks very much, Will extend the copper as well. Another job on the list! Mick. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kmm Posted May 4, 2009 Share Posted May 4, 2009 If you want more axle drop, then fit -2" rear shock mount and cut 2" off front turrets. Various bushes will get extra stress i suppose, but works fine for me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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