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rebuilt engine


drkwack

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Hi finally got 300tdi started after a full engine rebuild thanks to some bodge artist/mechanic any way, it struggles to start unless throttle is pumped then until warmish wont tickover at anything under1000 on rev counter, I am thinking fuel lift pump and filter any ideas,

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The 300TDi engine usually starts and runs fine with no help from the lift pump, but there's a loss of revs at the top end. Could be the filter, but it would have to be seriously blocked, but even then it would cause problems at higher revs. Are you getting any excessive smoke?

Les.

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The 300TDi engine usually starts and runs fine with no help from the lift pump, but there's a loss of revs at the top end. Could be the filter, but it would have to be seriously blocked, but even then it would cause problems at higher revs. Are you getting any excessive smoke?

Les.

no smoke black or white, have checked timing and had to alter injector pump slightly, also turned it both ways to make sure it was at optimum point then rechecked with flywheel lock pin and pump lock pin sliding in easy, pump was rebuilt by specialist, I have also removed sedimenter and rejoined and crimped joint, engine is also using an uprated intercooler and larger bore single silencer system as well as free flow air filter and safari snorkel, thats about every thing.

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It does sound fuel-related. Are you getting air in the system? A rebuilt engine would have to be much too tight in order for it not to tickover at all. Can you put some clear tubing in the fuel line before and after the lift pump? this would show if air was in the system before or after it.

Les.

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Hi guys update, replaced the fuel pipe from tank to lift pump using new olives as well, seems to run better but still requires throttle pumping slightly to get to start but will now tick over, another thing has reared its ugly head. Has any one had a rear crank seal fail due to car being stood for months while repairing floor and sills, all relys welcome.

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thanks that wasnt the answer I was hoping for as that means gearbox out, I believe thats the quickest way to get at the seal am I right or do I leave it alone until it starts running out faster than I put it in ???. thanks for your help

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If it isn't leaking too much you could possibly hope that it will get better, though that is not normal. It is possible to move the gearbox back without actually removing it, but it is then not easy to get the flywheel off and get at the seal. Best of luck.

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Update again, new fuel lift pump and diesel filter engine still reqs press of throttle to get to start, as warming up revs slowly rise and it is slow, get to 1000 then I adjust down to 850/950 stop engine and try to restart and have to use throttle,

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  • 2 weeks later...

Update guys, hope this might help others. It appears that I was one tooth out on cam /crank belt timing and the rebuilt fuel injector pump has been assembled incorrectly, something to do with the front flange (all martian to me), now waiting for pump guy to remove repair and refitt ( the 3 r's).

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another blasted update. pump guy say there is rust inside pump and it has scored the main shaft rendering the pump knac--ed. Waiting to see pump but am draining tank drying out and cleaning just in case as well as blowing the lines out and replacing filter with another new one :(:(:(

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