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Wood Burning Stove


Mark

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Cheers

Mark

I guess its ok for bacon or even sausages but how do you do the eggs in that frying pan :P .

Eggs will be just fine, afer you've been using it for a while. In the cheffy trade they call it a patina that biulds up on the surface acting as a natural anti stick. I use a steel plate on top of my gas barbecue to cook bacon and eggs when we are on holiday.

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Come to think of it all cylinders remain property of the companies that produce them , Just wish they would come and collect them , there are thousands littering the country .

We cleared a site in the middle of Brum which had been used by the travelling community bless em. There was 30/40 empty gas cylinders from probably a dozen different companies. Each cylinder has a tel no, each company came and collected every one that belonged to them.

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Warthog, I like that a lot - got any more pics of the front end, air control etc?

Roxydoo, yes the valve is very tight. I used a brass drift and a copper hammer to remove mine (nb brass and copper so no sparks) - There is a flat at the back that you can et to with a long drift, so just tapped that round till it was loose enough to undo. Nor lefthand, just tinght, and in there for for a while on mine (was made in 1972 according to the bottle date...)

Cheers

Mark

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Warthog, I like that a lot - got any more pics of the front end, air control etc?

Cheers,

Air controls is by a tube with a tapered round bar made to slide in and out of the tube.

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At the backend a Fressh air supply for the chimney (helps vent gases) Plus a smaller secondary vent (10mm ID) that can draw the fire to the rear of the burner. Fire bricks to the rear inside, help hold the warmth.

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Baffle plate:

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Dampner in Chimney

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Hope that helps?

Burning off Paint, ready for spraying

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Warthog, I like that a lot - got any more pics of the front end, air control etc?

Roxydoo, yes the valve is very tight. I used a brass drift and a copper hammer to remove mine (nb brass and copper so no sparks) - There is a flat at the back that you can et to with a long drift, so just tapped that round till it was loose enough to undo. Nor lefthand, just tinght, and in there for for a while on mine (was made in 1972 according to the bottle date...)

Cheers

Mark

Cheers mate, i didnt read this post intime lol.

ended up just smashing it off in the end then sawing the brass valve out of the bottle

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Those look really impressive. Funnily enough, I knocked up this rough effort last week from a small bottle, must be that time of year! I am well impressed with the amount of heat coming out of it, even outside for the smoke test. once it is lashed in place fully commissioned a proper diameter flue will be fitted, that bit was an extension that was lying about which I sat on top to help it draw.

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Now that I have started bottles are coming out of the woodwork, got a 4' bottle currently being procured, I am thinking some sort of oven for the next one. Looking again at my picture I realise I have too much landiecrap going on in the background.

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:unsure: These products are real TM (Trade Marked) I can get them marketed to some rural area in Africa. I however take 20% :ph34r: for any sold stove so it is time to make money for your products.. Rural areas do not need any Authority to test for Safety nor Standards!! :blink::huh: !! Why do I have a feeling Big Brother is watching on to these Ovens?? ;);)
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This looks very cool and very simple. The only oil burners I've seen have forced induction. Got any more details/design sketches?

Yes I have,It works with used car oil and all the oils from gearbox ,transfer box etc.

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I also have an Word document wit all the measures and expenation.but I can not attach them.

hope thet helps

Eugen

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Some wonderful contraptions :lol:

just add mine, chimney running along the wall to act as a radiator, lovely ;)

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Not really a good idea, the chimney should be as short as possible, but long enough to clear the building and create enough draft. This chimney is actually extremely dangerous, since the metal will act as a radiator, cooling the smoke and causing the tar and unburned particles to stick to the inside of the chimney, which can result in a chimney fire. This WILL burn hot enough to melt the chimneypipe and burn down your workshop. Instead, try to improve the stove itself and insulate the chimney to give better draft and less risk of chimney fires.

Wikipedia - chimneyfires

A couple of general observations:

1. Consider using fire bricks or similar isolationg stuff on the inside of the stove to drive the temperature up. This will improve efficiency and reduce smoke a lot. There's no reason to isolate the bottom though, it will soon be covered by an insulation layer of ashes.

2. Consider a jacket of plating around the stove, with about 1 inch of free space, to turn it from radiating heat to convection heating. This increases efficiency and reduces the necessary distances to nearby walls and combustible things.

/tony

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