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self leveling unit on a 110


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I decided to take the self leveling unit of my 1986 110 csw having read that others have removed theirs and upgraded to stiffer springs. I did not know if it was working but liked the idea of looseing the weight it had and having more room to clean and weld the chassis.

I took the rear anti roll bar of when it got damaged and have not noticed any ill effects.

I would like to put a new fuel tank on and tank guard at a later date.

My question is can the same thing be done to a 1983 Range Rover and a 1990 Discovery self leveling unit.

Any advise would be welcomed.

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I have a 94 110 CSW that leaked the oil from the leveler on a trip through Spain .

Caused a bit of pukkering as it looked like the diff. seal had blown . Had it removed

on return to the UK & was told it should have been removed when heavy duty springs

were fitted . Has since been all through Eur. with full load and no handling problems .

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The self leveller when operating is a very good idea, as it allows softer springing for light loads , but helps with heavy load . I still have it on my 110 , and it still works , it was the fore runner to self levelling air susp , and IMHo much more h/d and reliable, in harsh condition s.

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Can anyone give me a quick answer please.

you can remove the Boge strut from the bottom mount in 1 of 2 ways, either unscrew the very thin retaining nut around the lower ball joint, may need to slide the rubber boot clear to see the nut or cut the ball joint cup off the lower centre part.

I took mine off years ago as it was none working, by unbolting the top mount from the chassis & unscrewing the bottom joint, I've left the cup in place as it doesn't interfere with anything else.

thin nut marked in green on the photo,similar nut on lower ball joint. parts page gives better idea of layout. remove the strut & get the 'A' frame/rear axle ball joint refitted, if no other means of axle location is fitted.

post-20-1235152690_thumb.jpg

post-20-1235152802_thumb.jpg

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The Hockey sticks are they also called radius arms?

The A frame bolts to the back axle via a ball joint with the 2 A frame arms held in bushings with thick bolts is this part of what holds the axle in place?

My thoughts are would the axle not twist on this ball joint and is it this that holds the axle in? it really does not look like much holding the rear axle in?

Does the A frame and shock/strut not just control the rear levelness with shock/strut still fitted that is?

Does the trailing arms on the back not hold the axle in and stop the rear axle from twisting?

Sorry to question your advise but I am interested to hear more.

I will take your advise and will not drive the 110 without the A frame.

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Yes radius arms [front axle] are often called hockey sticks because when removed the axle end of them looks like a hockey stick.

the rear arms are called trailing arms & along with these the A frame & ball joint locate & control the rear axles movement.

the strut when working levels the rear when heavy loads or trailers are on board. it has a limited bump action as that is controlled by the shock absorbers.

the A frame arms/ball joint also prevent the axle from rotating around it's hub centres therfore stopping the axle nose moving up/down & prevents axle tramp = A form of wheel hop that occurs on cars with live axles, caused by the axle repeatedly rotating slightly with the wheels and then springing back.

hope that helps.

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