ChrisS Posted February 19, 2009 Share Posted February 19, 2009 Such a simple thing I thought to replace the rear mud flap which had all but torn off. I 've got a new rear offside mud flap riveted to a new bracket - I wasn't given the option of mud flap only and I didn't think of asking, and I now know that some of you fix mud flaps to existing brackets with stainless bolts, washers and nuts for easy removal. I have removed the middle bolt from the bracket - it was stiff all the way but must have been either in a captive bolt or threaded hole. The remaining two are the problem. They are both loose and rotating, but neither slacken any more or indeed even tighten back up. After getting out mud which was packed inside the ? x-member? I can just feel s collar round one of the bolts which I can rotate with my fingertip. Is this some king of captive nut or threaded thing which has sheared off the inside of the X-member? Any suggestions? I can't believe that it would be designed so that the whole back end would need to be removed to replace mud flaps, so presumably they must be captive nuts. If I do need to remove the x-member and therefore the rear step, tow bar bracket, what else needs to come off, and what are the problems that I am likely to encounter. Even so, I've still got to get at these bolts/captive nuts and find a way of bolting the new bracket in place. There is very little access into the box that the rear member is formed into at that point. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve200TDi Posted February 19, 2009 Share Posted February 19, 2009 Hi, The 'captive nuts' as you call them are rivnuts which is a threaded insert rivited in place. And now I gather its just turning. An idea that I used to remove one of the bolts on my front mudflaps was to cut the bolt head off and tap the rest of the bolt into the outrigger (or in your case the rear cross member) and fish it out with a magnet. As its very restrictive in the rear crossmember as the openings at each end are covered partially by the rear tub you probably cannot get a pair of mole grips or pliers on the nut. Hope this helps. Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChrisS Posted February 20, 2009 Author Share Posted February 20, 2009 Thanks for that, Steve, I'll give it a go. After getting them out, I may be able to get a nut on one of the bolts when I refit the new bracket, the middle should be ok as the rivnut seems to be in place, but on the innermost one - any ideas? Is there anything like an expanding bolt as used in dry-lined walls? Could the bracket be riveted in place? (The nuts have an 8mm head) Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
howard14 Posted February 20, 2009 Share Posted February 20, 2009 Thanks for that, Steve, I'll give it a go. After getting them out, I may be able to get a nut on one of the bolts when I refit the new bracket, the middle should be ok as the rivnut seems to be in place, but on the innermost one - any ideas? Is there anything like an expanding bolt as used in dry-lined walls? Could the bracket be riveted in place? (The nuts have an 8mm head)Chris Hi Chris. Those 'RIVNUTS' sieze up very badly, and as like as not the best way might be to grind the heads off then grind/punch the rivnut and the siezed in bolt shank through. Then fit new 6mm rivnuts. I bought a rivnut tool off Ebay for about £17, and a bag of rivnuts for less than a fiver. In total you have twelve mudflap holes to worry about; so it might seem worth it Best regards. Howard. 2x300TdiDef. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cat_J Posted February 21, 2009 Share Posted February 21, 2009 I bought a rivnut tool a while back and use it when I can. So much easier than nuts in annoying places. Just grind it off and replace. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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