Jump to content
haakon

D1 V8 EFI engine issues

Recommended Posts

I've now borrowed a distribtur from RRC, but it has the ignition module sitting on the side of the distributor. Will it work?

Does any know the recommend max vacuum advance for the 3,9?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I asked Summit why my distributor wouldn't work on my car:

"The ECU needs to have rpm input from the distributor and to control the timing curve in relation to the fuel curve for the injection.

I don't know of anyone offering an aftermarket distributor for it. You will most likely need to use the stock one or obtain one from a dealer."

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Jeeeeez they know their stuff don't they? :blink:

The ECU feed just comes off the -ve terminal of the coil on the white/black or white/blue wire, if it's firing it should be running.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Ok, so just carp from Summit then? :(

My old distributor was a 35DM8 and the one I've borrowed is a 35DLM8. Does anyone know how to wire the ignition amp ? It's two pins on the ignition amp.

I'm getting closer to MS every day now.. To bad this website isn't working. It was very informative.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Might be something wrong with the canister purge valve (like stuck open) so it allows fuel vapors to pass to the engine on idle or vehicle not moving (which it shouldn't do).

Try clamping the hose between the canister and the intake plenum if the hose is soft/flexible enough or disconnect the hose and block both sides (be careful what you use to block the intake plenum hole to prevent it being sucked in by the vacuum).

Do a test drive with the hose clamped/disconnected and see what happens.

I've got some time of today, so I'll give this a try. What should happen? :)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The engine will not stall at idle when warm and it should restart as it should when warm. If there's something wrong with the valve/canister/vapor breathing system that is.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Tried this. No difference

New%20Image.jpg

So, I give up... :(

I will either part the car, buy carbs or MS.

You can see how the rpm drops when I put in D and it after a while it dies.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

So you have worked completely through the diagnostics manual in the technical archive and found nothing amiss? :huh:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

...and did you try it with the normal distributor fitted?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
My old distributor was a 35DM8 and the one I've borrowed is a 35DLM8. Does anyone know how to wire the ignition amp ? It's two pins on the ignition amp.

The two pins are one blade in line with the amp body and the other across the body this one is also closest to the corner.

Inline should have a white wire which is ignition switched +12v also supplying the coil +ve.

Crosswise should be white/black going to coil negative.

Steve

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
My old distributor was a 35DM8 and the one I've borrowed is a 35DLM8. Does anyone know how to wire the ignition amp ? It's two pins on the ignition amp.
Hello Haakon,

Here is a generic circuit diagram of a typical (mid '80's period) Rover V8 electronic ignition where the amplifier can be either on the side of the distributor - 35DLM8 - or in an aluminium unit mounted adjacent to the ignition coil - 35DM8.

Ignition02.png

you may not need further info but just in case check out my post on this thread

http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=38631

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
...and did you try it with the normal distributor fitted?

No, not yet :)

I do think the problem is related to fuel in someway, since the problems occurs whenever the engine is warm.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
I do think the problem is related to fuel in someway, since the problems occurs whenever the engine is warm.

Don't bet on it. Amplifiers fail when the engine is hot.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I don't think I've not changed the tps. I read this thread and I've got the same problem.

However, I'm quite sure this is tested ok. I've got to start writing down what I've done with car :rolleyes:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
I've got to start writing down what I've done with car

Good idea, otherwise you can forget what you have done & go around in circles getting nowhere. :blink:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Ramon - I think your diagram is wrong, the ECU tach feed passes through the over-run relay contacts on route to the ECU.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Ramon - I think your diagram is wrong, the ECU tach feed passes through the over-run relay contacts on route to the ECU.

Fridge,

My drawing applies to the Rover SD1 82-86 systems but I have been using it to illustrate the generic ignition process whenever it seems to meet the OP's queries.

You are however right for the period Range Rover System where the Rover SD1 mechanical vacuum overrun valve on the rear of the plenum was replaced by the vacuum cutoff relay interupting the ignition feed to pin 1 and cutting of all injection during over-run.

On the Rover SD1, during over-run, the Efi system crudely relied upon some additional air introduced via the mechanical vacuum valve intended to create a combustible mixture from the fuel injected at the throttle idle position PLUS fuel already condensed on the plenum/manifold walls which during over-run immediately evaporates, rather than having the resultant increased quantity of fuel get thro the the exhaust system, unburned, where it causes loads of popping and banging.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We use cookies to ensure you get the best experience. By using our website you agree to our Cookie Policy