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X Brake continued.....


streaky
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After nearly four months off the road I finally got my Discovery repaired by the insurance company.

Right before the collision with an ARB bumper equipped Land Cruiser we were having this discussion http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=35589

Today I was able to get the car up on the ramp and take a picture of how we left the X-Brake. You notice that I had to make an additional bracket to extend the cable & get any sort of working hand brake.

I'm hoping that some one can look at this and tell me where it's gone wrong.

Comments?

post-264-1235577040_thumb.jpg

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Pretty sure there is reference to drilling a second hole in the caliper for the return spring, unmounting the arm, turning it a bit, and remounting...

Hang on a mo....

Here: http://www.x-eng.co.uk/Instructions/X-Brake.pdf

In the appendix, this should allow you to adjust it to wherever you like.

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From the above it looks like the orientation difference is a Defender vs Disco thing so probably best to ignore that, I didn't realise there was such a big difference between them.

Looking at your pic again and reading the instructions it looks like you could remove your extension and, if the cable won't reach the second hole using the built in cable adjustment, just move the lever one spline anti clockwise as described in the instructions.

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There are three (at least!) different orientations for the caliper which have been used at different times. Originally the Defender model was placed at the 12 o'clock position as shown in DaveW's photograph, then there was a revision to the 1 o'clock position to allow for fitment of a PTO. These two were sold concurrently for a while and now the only Defender model fits both PTO and non-PTO models with the calliper at 1 o'clock. The Discovery/Rangerover model has always been at the 9 o'clock position as in Pete's photograph.

Looking at the picture Streaky has posted, the camera was being held at an angle - I am assuming that this is the case and that the calliper is at 9 o'clock with the 'skid plate' at the 6 o'clock to prevent the disc from touching down? The calliper spring is in the correct position - you see that there is an unused hole at about the 5 o'clock position where the spring would locate for a Defender model. The arm seems to have been 'clocked' clockwise by one spline on the shaft - it should obviously look like Pete's. The solution would appear to be to rotate the arm anti-clockwise by one spline. To do this, make sure that the wheels are well chocked and release the handbrake. Remove the cable from the operating arm. Carefully loosen the bolt in the centre of the arm, turning it anti-clockwise a few turns allowing the spring to push the arm against the bolt head until the arm is allowed to come clear of the splined portion of the shaft. It should now be possible to rotate the arm anti-clockwise to align with the next spline - it should be easy to feel where the splines are - beware that the spring will be trying to rotate the arm clockwise, it is wise to keep a good hold on the arm during this procedure. Once in the correct position for the next spline apply gentle pressure to push the arm forward onto the splines and tighten the bolt in the centre. It should then be possible to get the cable attached and working normally and looking a lot more like Pete's picture. Be sure to use the locking tab to secure the centre bolt once you are happy that the arm is in the correct position.

As ever, if you haver any problems with any X-eng product you can always give X-eng a call or an email and ask for help. All the contact details are on the instructions or the website.

HTH

Chris

X-eng groupee

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To me it looks like the transfer box sits further back relative to the body. Edit: Actually the body looks different than on earlier models and this leads to the sensation that the TB sits further back.

By the way, the picture in manual seems to be from a RRC, am I right?

It looks like:

- the bracket holding the hand brake cable was touching or about to touch the body so some butchering was needed (red arrows)

- if the lever is rotated on the splines one tooth anti-clockwise then it will touch/hit the body when applying the brake (yellow arrow).

post-1725-1235587111_thumb.jpg

Edit: streaky, is it a 3 door or a 5 door? Sunroofs? Roofrails? What's the VIN #, WA7?????? ?

I can compare the body in that area with my Discovery, which is a 5 door 98 LHD but 300Tdi manual (sometimes at the end of the week).

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Some great feedback thx. The car is in the workshop who fitted the brake and I have sent them the pictures and a link to this thread so hopefully they can work it out.

I gave all of the fitting instructions to the workshop the first time but the accident happened on the last day of the race in October and I haven't been able to access the car since to cross reference what was done.

I can't get to the car to provide the VIN etc...but it's a 3 door V8 R380 Left hand drive. The surrounding body work had to be adjusted with a hammer to get the assembly to operate at all...hence the dents etc.

Yes...I could have gone directly to X-Eng but I'm sure that Simon would appriciate other peoples points of view as well. If there turns out to be some sort of perculiarity with my car then they'll also benifit from this excercise as well.

Thx again.

S.

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It looks like:

- the bracket holding the hand brake cable was touching or about to touch the body so some butchering was needed (red arrows)

- if the lever is rotated on the splines one tooth anti-clockwise then it will touch/hit the body when applying the brake (yellow arrow).

post-1725-1235587111_thumb.jpg

I also had to 'adjust' the body work to clear the bracket that holds the cable, it just not obvious in my picture. The operating lever doesn't move far enough to touch the body work.

Pete.

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This is what I would probably do:

- shorten the lever between the middle hole and the end hole

- rotate the lever anticlockwise (I don't know the number of splines on the shaft so I can't tell how many degrees you get from turning 1 tooth, but , if necessary, it can be fine tuned by adjusting the brake pads thickness)

- discard the part at the end of the brake cable

- use the middle hole to attach the cable

- adjust the cable

So in the end it will look something like this:

post-1725-1235640018_thumb.jpg

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Personally, I would loose the extension. Move the clevis on the end of the cable to the middle hole on the lever and adjust the threaded adjuster thingy to tension the cable appropriately.

post-74-1235653280_thumb.jpg

Adjust the bracket such that cable will be left in an arc while released but everything will pull straight when tensioned.

Si

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Alrighty then....I sent the workshop manager a link to this page last week. They had the car for two days and I picked it up on Thursday night before heading off to the desert for the weekend.

I haven't spoken to them yet to find out what they'd done but the X- brake is now working as intended. I pull up the lever and have a solid parking brake after two clicks.

I'm off to India for a week on business and will crawl underneath when I get back to see what it is they've done to make it work. A least I have the 'before' pictures to compare to.

Thanks for all the inputs. Can we have a fitters manual in Hindi please ;)

Regards.

S.

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