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Who's wired a vehicle from scratch?


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I rewired a SIII 88 from scratch.

I put the rear wiring in the tub rather than the chassis with connectors behind the drivers seat so I could lift the tub without grovelling underneath.

Wiring to the front went along the RH chassis leg with connectors to the radiator panel. Wiring was kept clear of the front wings so they could be removed without disturbing the electrics. Connectors between the front panel and the loom are on the top of the panel so they can be easily disconnected. The front light connectors were on the top of the panel.

All the relays (!) except front lights are on the bulkhead. The front light relays (Main & Dip beams, fog & spotlights and horn) are on the front panel. the power to these relays is taken straight from the battery, which is only inches away so only the control signals went to the relay, keeping the loom size down.

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Just a quicky...

Is it worth adding connectors in strategic places to be able to remove bits of bodywork? Or should I keep it as a one piece loom?

On both my 300tdi 110 and old series 2 swb, i rewired from scratch, i used waterproof connector boxes in each corner, enabling me to disconnect or add anythging i wanted. All circuits are independant of each other, i.e. if the lighting went tits up i could only lose one lamp or that circuit leaving the rest working fine.

Everything is also indepently earthed, ending up with 10mm earths going back to the battery and chassis

yes it takes a bit longer to do but in the past 9 years never had a electrical fault, i also use the old series off road quite a lot and it frequently gets very wet, before i rewired it something always went wrong electrically after a couple of hours platying in the wet.



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Depends on the application really, for absolute bullet-proofing then cutting out all unnecessary parts (connectors, most relays, etc.) is the order of the day at the expense of ease of repair / modification. For most people though it's preferable to do it a bit nicer, use a few more relays for things, give it a bit more expandability and put connectors on things you're likely to want to move or replace at some point.

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I suppose you could use trailer 7-core all over the place with trailer plugs & sockets at strategic places!

Trailer 7-core is a very good idea, the plugs however I'm not so sure about, they don't seem to be very reliable and are massive for what they are considering a 9-way computer D socket would very nearly do the same job :blink: (yes the good ones are rated over 5A per pin!)

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After my SeriesI had a moment at night I decided to rewire it.

I used 7 core for the rear but automotive wire for the rest. I added multi pin plugs for the removable bits.

1 peice front end and each dashboard section so they are removable.

I could not find waterproof ones at the time so used normal ones. Even after repeated dunkings I have not had a problem.

Best bonus.

You will use much less wire than LR due to only including what you need not every option possible and you will know where to look if there is a problem.


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