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Cooling Problems Then Sorted But Oil Through Dipstick


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Hi all and hope everyones having a good weekend.

Any help or info on an engine problem in my 1984 Series 3 Land Rover LWB sw will be much appreciated but forgive me for the long

post but want to give as much info as possible.

Had this vehicle @ 6 months and is my first LR and I love it to bits even though it keeps me VERY BUSY!

It has a Toyota 2ct diesel motor in which although this would`nt be my first choice of engine, I feel it goes well and just as important very ecomnomical and so I would like to keep this engine in the vehicle.

I have done a bit of investigations on various forums( there was a brilliant Toyota Townace forum-which uses the Toyota 2ct which was a fantastic forum but since the start of the year it has gone AWOL!)

There was a known flaw with this engine which was the cooling system. Along with the main recommendations that I researched I have flushed

the system several time and installed for the first time a Land Rover blower/matrix heater permanently fed from the points where there was a heater installed in the Toyota Townace .This heater was the rear heater in the Townace and was permanently on and used as the bypass for the engine coolant.

I still have the option of switching the blower on or not.

I have now reinstalled a genuine Toyota 2ct thermostat(82 C) as before it just had the remains of a butchered thermostat with a @30 mm permanently open hole in it!!!!

The motor use to run ok on this original setup but was running almost constantly cold (original LR gauge hardly ever got above the C part of the gauge -only moved when standing still for long time and in 4X4 work-Question 5 below?)and it seemed to be noisier.The motor never smoked and still had what i would call "normal" performance for such a small motor in the type of vehicle it was in.

What it always had was several annoying but fairly small oil leaks(Parents driveway looks an Iraqi mess).Having said this I hardly ever had to top up much oil(I was told a Land Rover always leaks but this was the Toyota part!!!).

I was told by previous owner that the oil level mark on the dipstick was correctly full when in between the original F/L mark on the dipstick because of the replacement sump to match my original series gearbox(Question 4?).

Now having got the new thermostat in ,the heater bypass up and running, and the system filled with nice 50/50 coolant the motor is definitly quieter and runs nicely with no smoke from the exhaust .

Have also installed a Madman engine monitoring system which shows the water temperature (installed in the original LR gauge sender position

-running after @ 1hr -with speeds of around 70kph)its never getting above 94 C and normally around the 90 C .

The original LR temp gauge (now installed where the coolant leaves the engine for the rad and showing when the stat opens)reads just

above N (never gets in to the RED H portion) .

Ok nearly there ,heres my questions!!

1) So the problem I have now is that I am getting oil vapour and small spits of oil up the dipstick mainly I think at tickover.

The engine is running clean no smoke and pulling well,could this be a worn engine/cracked piston,blowing head gasket etc.... if I am having no exhaust smoke and good performance?

For me at present it is just messy every time I open the bonnet (and dads drive looking like a place George Bush would want to go to war over!! )

2)I was wondering how tight the head gasket is but theres no milky substance in the oil and also no bubbles in the water?

Couple of weeks ago I removed the rocker cover breather and associated pipes and cleaned them (not too oily).Could it be the head gasket?

3)I am planning (my first ) oil change with good quality semi synthetic oil(Castrol Magneatec 10W40) as I wonder if it could be slightly sticking rings

but would it be worth while putting in an additive into the original oil to see if that helps as I dont want to be leaking a load of new expensive oil or do i just put the new in and also an additive in the new?

4)Could it be that it is over filled with oil ,how can I determine how much oil to put in if the original sump has been altered to match the series 3 gearbox,would that effect the original oil quantity (originally 4.3ltr with filter/3.8ltr without)

5)Last thing is I am not 100% sure how well my Viscous fan is working as I never seem to hear it kick in and it seems to spin constantly even after long runs

it will still spin easily by hand when I pull over and stop the engine(never felt it locked up at all -yet?).This could be due to the fact that my original

LR radiator cowling has a @150mm gap from its end to the fan (the landy was originaly an R6 with the 2.6 ltr 6cyl petrol motor and so came further forward).

I am planning to refabricate a radiator cowl extension but if its the viscous fan may wait and change to an electric.

Does the Viscous fan get its heat sensing temp from the air coming through the rad or from residual heat thru the engine?

As I can easily get to the front of my fan with a hairdryer /heat gun could I heat the bi metalic strip up which should in theory engage the fan (obviously with engine off!!!! :lol: )

6) My dipstick does not have any type of seal on the top as it enters the tube (looks like someone may have tried some type of liquid metal solution but is still not what i would call a "seal" ...is there suppose to be? ..if i make up a seal will that create more problems by blowing oil out of somewhere else?

ok all thats about it you have my lifestory and just about every thing else above so any one got any clues ,many thanks and continue having a good weekend





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If your viscous fan spins freely by hand - whether the engine is hot or cold, then it's not working properly (too slow at higher revs). Replace it or fit an electric fan that covers about 2/3 of the radiator surface. If oil spits out of the dipstick tube at tickover, but not at higher revs, then maybe there's too much oil in the engine. If it was the head gasket/cracked piston/etc, then I would expect it to get worse as revs increase. The dipstick should be a fairly tight fit in the tube - most have some kind of seal at the top of either the tube or stick. A loose dipstick on a lot of cars will spit oil out, so it could be that. A different sump may be your problem - especially if the one on it now is a lot different from the old one (significantly less capacity). It could just be crank splash, in which case a longer dipstick and tube may cure the problem.


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