red90 driver Posted March 4, 2009 Share Posted March 4, 2009 I have just finished doing a front axle swap on our '93 Defender 90. The original axle was a 24 spline setup and was only swapped due to having refurbished a discovery item. So, the axle tube was swapped over, and I re-used the swivels and hubs from the 90 axle. Everything went back on perfect. I also installed new ashcroft defender cv's and shafts at this time. When on the post fitting test drive, the steering has absolutely no self centering and is vague to the point of being dangerous, as it will wander all over the road at anything over 25 mph. Is there any difference in the swivels and hubs on 300 defender / disco axles? The ball joints were all replaced at Christmas, and the whole truck drove fine until the axle swap. If anybody can help shed some light on the matter...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted March 4, 2009 Share Posted March 4, 2009 have you reset the swivel pin pre-loads & are all the bushes OK & panhard rod bolts fully tight & steering damper fitted & working ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
red90 driver Posted March 4, 2009 Author Share Posted March 4, 2009 Not done the swivel preloads. All the bolts are done up tight. No wear in the bushes. No wear on the bolts. Steering damper was replaced some time ago with hydro assist. Would the swivels need the preload changing if the complete swivel and hub assembly were just swapped from one axle to another? It feels like there is no castor on the steering. the only things that are different is the axle casing, and new shafts / cv's.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eightpot Posted March 4, 2009 Share Posted March 4, 2009 Have you checked the steering alignment to make sure the wheels aren't toe out? You're geometry has probably changed after interchanging the axle/hubs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
red90 driver Posted March 4, 2009 Author Share Posted March 4, 2009 Checked with a tape measure 1230 mm eye to eye on the track rod (behind the axle) and 930mm eye to eye on the drag link. The figures were checked with my disco 1 Haynes manual, and seem to match what it says. D'you reckon I need to get them checked properly at a tyre depot? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted March 4, 2009 Share Posted March 4, 2009 always best to at least check the swivel preload is correct, it will affect the steering, if to loose it will cause the steering to shake badly either at various speeds or when going over some rough tarmac/manhole covers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Reiny Posted March 5, 2009 Share Posted March 5, 2009 Could anybody please shed some light about how to set the preload correctly? I'm currently rebuilding a 24 spline axles and I'm not changing anything apart from the seals and gaskets. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dantd5 Posted March 5, 2009 Share Posted March 5, 2009 Could anybody please shed some light about how to set the preload correctly? I'm currently rebuilding a 24 spline axles and I'm not changing anything apart from the seals and gaskets. In my case when i did my swivel pin preload test I bought a hook for weighing fishes . This could take up tp 12 kilos. According to a friend of mine or through research and readings I used 7.2kg preload. After bolting the topp and lower bolts of the swivel pull the housing to find this. I hope this helps..There are better gurus here actually.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markyboy Posted March 5, 2009 Share Posted March 5, 2009 Checked with a tape measure1230 mm eye to eye on the track rod (behind the axle) and 930mm eye to eye on the drag link. The figures were checked with my disco 1 Haynes manual, and seem to match what it says. D'you reckon I need to get them checked properly at a tyre depot? Always a good idea to get the wheel alignment checked. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
santalars Posted March 5, 2009 Share Posted March 5, 2009 I could barely get one KG of preload with no shims and new pins and bearings. How did you manage 7?? However I think I have a figure of 1.2 kg required preload from the manual in mind. Anyway, could sombody please explain to me what is causing the resistance as I tried to understand it but couldn't cross the point where I said that I'm only adjusting the position of the pin in the bearing with the shims. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted March 5, 2009 Share Posted March 5, 2009 This is from the workshop manual for swivel pre-loads: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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