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Fitting Staun Beadlockers to Modular wheels


Mark
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Morning all,

Have been modifying a set of 8" Modulars to take Staun internal beadlocks. To do this you need to drill a hole in the rim for the beadlock valve to come through, and the positioning of this is quite important according to the staun instructions.

Following the instructions in the same way as thier video also suggests puts the valve inside the central disc of the wheel, which isn't ideal for either accesability or clearence on brake calipers etc.

I have gone with positioning the staun valve in the vertical section of the rim, exactly the same plane as the tyre valve sits. Does anyone see any problem with position?

As far as I can tell it fits the criteria set out by staun, and shouldn't distort the inner tube too much, but it seems contrary to thier instructions for some reason.

If this makes sense to anyone, and they have an idea, pls let me know.

ta

(sorry, no pictures as I forgot to take my camera... :( )

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Right, thought a digram might help...

This is a cross section of the rim.

I have put my hole at position 1, same as the tyre valve.

The instructions say ideally position 2 (problem with too much metal) or 3 - both inaccessable really.

gallery_92_187_6386.jpg

Can anyone see any problems with this position?

ta

Mark

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I can't check my 8 spokes at the mo (they're 230 Kms far from me) but I think I drilled the holes in the same position...

As far as it's nicely flat it should be ok...

Only hint, replace the long plastic cap with a shorter one...it will not stick out as much.

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All the wheels have now been drilled in the position above and had the beadlocks fitted to them. Separate valves are not required with the current design as the tyre valve is also supplied with the beadlock kit. The stauns are not as bad as I was expecting them to be to fit - def. a 2 man job though.

Valves are protected by rings weleded to the rim - not exactly pretty but certainly functional. No pics I am afraid as Mr Orange took them away with him!

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Not considered it just yet. We will see what happens - they haven't made it onto the truck yet, so we will do the first round of the challenger series and see how we get on...

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  • 2 weeks later...

I have always wondered why the staun valve could not be fitted to the opposite side of the wheel to help balance.

Tony, did you cut a groove into those rubber valves to let the air bypass. The Staun ones are a flat metal base IIRC. I put some rubber ones in once and I had to let the tyre down before I could let the locker down, the air could not get past.

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The new lockers come with a valve for the tyre as well, which has an airpath through to the tyre casement.

Not really sure why you can't fit them opposite each other, it would seem the logical way to do it, but all the instructions are quite clear about not doing that.

At some point I'll post some pictures up of the wheels we did... they aren't pretty, but I think they should work OK....

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Pictures......will that mean I'll have to tidy up the quick slap of paint I gave them??!!!

There doesn't appear to be an issue with balancing at the moment (been for a couple of jaunts since fitting them), but the steering lock may be an issue... They definitely seem to rub 'slightly' on the radius arms!!!

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I have always wondered why the staun valve could not be fitted to the opposite side of the wheel to help balance.

Tony, did you cut a groove into those rubber valves to let the air bypass. The Staun ones are a flat metal base IIRC. I put some rubber ones in once and I had to let the tyre down before I could let the locker down, the air could not get past.

I think Tony's pic was just to show valves, he's running staz double beadlocks.

Steve

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Cheers Steve

yes Bob the pic was just for thew Valves themselves.

After the weekend I need to fit another spacer in my N/S front after winching it side ways till the tyre bagged enough to release the 10psi in there

still the double beadlock meant I could drive back to the start then fill it with air.

It has a 4mmspacer with the original doughnut but a 6mm I think is required.

I have loads of spares so will re do it for the next outing.(along with brake lines) :(

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