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Replacing a 300TDi EDC injection pump,


Pete Attryde
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Right I have had a few PM's about this since I converted my Discovery Auto from EDC. I did this at least 18 months ago so some details may have been forgotten but, I thought I would try and write a how to.

To replace the EDC system you will need to source the following items,

:- A non EDC injection pump from a 300TDi (either Discovery or Defender). It doesn't matter if it has the EGR pot on it as that is easily removable. Make sure it has the throttle cable bracket attached.

:- Ideally the 4 metal injector feed pipes that go with the Non-EDC pump (although not vital as it is possible to use the existing ones with a little modification)

:- The boost monitor pipe that runs from the waste gate connection to the boost diaphragm and its associated banjo bolt and washers.

:- A throttle cable. (I used one for a Range Rover as I had it kicking about)

:- New cam belt and tensioner etc. (again not vital but you will be disturbing the cam belt so you might as well change it.)

:- A suitable piece of pipe to replace the Airflow meter.

:- A selection of bolts, washers, nuts and springs etc.

Taking into account that I don’t have an air-conditioning pump installed on my engine at the moment. I suspect you will need to move it to get to some of the bolts.

I started by following Uncle Les’s excellent post (from the Tech archive) on replacing the cam belt to strip the front end of the engine. Having removed the cam belt I then disconnected the injector feed pipes from the back of the pump and the injectors and covered the ports to stop any muck getting in. Then disconnect the electrical connectors (2 of them 1 large and white and 1 smaller and black)and the fuel supply and return lines, un-bolted the injection pump from the timing cover (IIRC 3 or 4, 13mm nuts at the timing cover and one at the rear) and lifted it off the engine. At this point unbolt and move to one side the kick down cable bracket. If you have the fuel supply pies that match the Non EDC pump then, next install the replacement pump on the timing cover and bolt it up.

However if like me you don’t have the correct pipes you will have to do the following before you install the pump.

On the back of both pumps there are the unions for the injector pipes to connect to, these have a hex section (13mm I think) to allow them to be un-screwed. Starting with the EDC pump carefully and over a clean surface remove each union and the spring and plunger that are held in place by the union. Then do the same on the Non EDC pump next install the union, spring and plunger from the EDC pump into the non-EDC pump. The reason for this is that they are a different length and by changing them you can then install the original EDC injector pipes. Next fit the cam belt as per the rest of Les’s thread.

Little bit of electrickery :ph34r: next, you need an ignition controlled feed for the stop solenoid, this needs to be live whilst cranking as well. I reused the feed in the original loom (located using a multi-meter and I can’t recall the wire colour at the moment) but had to extend it to allow it to reach the stop solenoid.

Next reconnect the fuel supply and return pipes (I used new banjo bolts and washers).

Re-install the injector pipes but leave the injector ends loose to aid bleeding the system.

On the turbo side of the engine locate the waste gate control pipe tee piece, 1 branch of the tee goes to an electrical unit on the fire wall. Disconnect this pipe and replace it with the monitor pipe. This monitor pipe runs round the back of the engine and connects to the boost diaphragm on the pump. You can un-bolt and dispose of the electrical bit and associated pipe work. Still on the turbo side, disconnect the Air Flow Meter (AFM) electrical connector and tie it back to the main loom securely disconnect the inlet pipe work from the AFM and un-bolt and remove it. Replace with suitable sized pipe.

Reinstall the aircon pump if you removed it.

At this point you can bleed the fuel system (I did this by cranking the engine over until fuel came out of the injector pipes which, with the engine still being cranked, I then tightened :unsure: ) and the engine should start. When you’re happy the engine is running correctly, switch it off.

Time now to install the throttle cable. Working under the dashboard disconnect and remove the throttle pot, from memory this was a little fiddly but not complicated. With the pot removed disconnect the kick-down cable. Working from the engine bay drill a hole through the firewall next to the kick-down cable to suit the throttle cable. Push the throttle cable through the firewall working under the dash, and using a suitable length bolt connect the kick-down and throttle cables to the throttle pedal. The end of the pedal is forked to allow the kick-down cable to sit inside it and then the throttle cable sits on one side. IIRC I used an M5 shanked bolt and Nylock nut, the length of the shank was such that both cables ran on the shanked part rather than the threads. Back in the engine bay run the throttle cable to the injection pump making sure the adjuster is seated correctly in the bracket at the rear of the pump and then connect the cable to the throttle spindle (again I used a suitable shanked bolt and Nylock Nut.) Re-install the kick-down cable bracket to the timing cover, I had to space mine up about 25mm so that it cleared the top of the injection pump which is a different shape to the EDC one. Adjust the throttle cable to give the correct pedal action.

Put the tools away, start the engine and go for a drive :P . I found initially that the throttle pedal felt a bit odd but soon adapted. The other bonus of this conversion is that you can now tweak the pump to gain some extra horsepower :ph34r: if you want. Although I would recommend fitting an EGT gauge before you do so as to minimise the risk of damage to your engine.

Like I said at the beginning it is at least 18 months ago that I did this job so my memory may be a little shaky ;-) but I think I have covered most things.

Sorry for the lack of pictures I will try and get some over the weekend.

Pete

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Here are some photo's of the finished conversion:-

panto005.jpg

Throttle pedal cable connection

panto006.jpg

Throttle cable and Kick-down cable at firewall/bulkhead

panto007.jpg

Injector pump in place

panto008.jpg

Position of kick-down cable bracket after spacing it to clear pump. Also shows secondary throttle return spring.

panto009.jpg

AFM replacement pipe. Obviously i'm not useing a standard airbox but the principal will be the same.

panto010.jpg

Boost monitor pipe at the pump end

panto011.jpg

And at the turbo end.

HTH

Pete.

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  • 1 year later...

Can't really say if there's any obvious plus points. I think people do this coz the mechanical pump can be tweeked. I am changing mine purely because the electronic pump and throttle position sensor is malfunctioning, so instead of forking out more money looking for new electronic pump & sensor, I might as well use the mechanical pump sitting on the shelf.

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Hi, sorry missed this yesterday. As stated removing ECU will stop the check engine light being on all the time. you may still see it as you switch off the engine.

I changed the pump on mine for the exact same reason, as it was cheaper to go mechanical than fix the electronics. Also it means you can play with fuelling easily wink.gif (I actually find it performs better with the tweeked mech pump than it did with the EDC working properly)

Pete.

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  • 1 month later...

Hi,

A bit late in the thread I know, but is there any way I can get the pictures from the thread? They are no longer in Photo Bucket according to the text above so I assume they are gone or moved.

I have already brought the issues I am having up on this threaad but am still none the wiser. I have had several people say to check the fuek filter or supply etc. but surely my problem is not 'am I getting enough fuel' but I am getting fuel but it is not being burned correctly. If I drove it now I would get arrested for polution!!

I have got another EDC pump to try, but knowing the luck I have hasd o far it will not cure it :(

But I have to get it sorted soon as I know it is an 'off-road' vehicle, but this is getting ridiculous!! It's been almost a year now :o. My problem is that I travel ahell of a lot with work so when I am at home I do not have a great deal of time to do things so cannot afford to be spending half my life sorting the Disco.

Any advice please?

John

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