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Greasable, slop free, rebuildable Defender hinges-10 minute mod


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Take tired drooping original hinges, knock out hinge pin from underneath and seperate hinge halves.

Lightly run a countersinking bit into either end of the bulkhead hinge pin holes to help centre the drill bit/tap

Drill the top hole of the bulkhead half to 8mm (the top half of the hinge looking downwards), and drill the door part of the hinge also to 8mm.

Drill and tap the lower hole of the bulkhead half to 8*1.25mm

Drill a 5mm hole slightly off centre of the hinge pin in the door half so it just breaks into the hinge pin hole, tap to 6mm for a grease nipple.

Use a 8mm *80mm cap head screw as the shoulder length is correct for this application (the hinge will swivel on the shoulder part of the bolt rather than any threads), Shorten bolt by approx 10mm before assembling the hinge.

Notch the bulkhead half with a grinding disc so the grease nipple has clearance on full opening-not really required if door check straps are working correctly.

Not sure how long it'll last but they're slop free and the door shuts nicely at the moment and probably have less slop than some new Britpart replacement!

Crappy phone camera pics;

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A nice robust workmanlike mod. It would still be good without the grease nipple, for those people that know about oil cans.

These days I use waterproof trailer wheel-bearing grease for that sort of job (£7.50 a tub), it works well, or even silicone grease at three times the price even better.

Thanks for the bolt sizes.

Howard.

2x300TdiDef.

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hope your door check bars are in fine order or a strong gust of wind will kill the grease nipple.

neat job though.

if you notch the bulkhead part there's enough clearance for the grease nipple without having the door check inplace, the hinge locks itself on itself if you know what I mean without touching the grease nipple.

This is why you have to offset the grease nipple hole away from the centre line of the hinge pin.

I'll take some better pics tomoz now both the upper and lower hinges have been done and put back on the truck.

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if you notch the bulkhead part there's enough clearance for the grease nipple without having the door check inplace, the hinge locks itself on itself if you know what I mean without touching the grease nipple.

This is why you have to offset the grease nipple hole away from the centre line of the hinge pin.

I'll take some better pics tomoz now both the upper and lower hinges have been done and put back on the truck.

Top man.

Howard.

2x300TdiDef.

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if you notch the bulkhead part there's enough clearance for the grease nipple without having the door check inplace, the hinge locks itself on itself if you know what I mean without touching the grease nipple.

This is why you have to offset the grease nipple hole away from the centre line of the hinge pin.

I'll take some better pics tomoz now both the upper and lower hinges have been done and put back on the truck.

good to know you've thought about it & engineered the result to prevent the grease nipple getting damage :i-m_so_happy:

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Would it be possible to do something similar with rear door hinges, I put my spare on the roof rack but the hinges are wrecked anyway, a must do job soon.

You already have servicable bits in them ! A new brass ball, screw, spring, nut and tab washer are about a pound per hinge from paddocks. :)

Mo

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A nice robust workmanlike mod. It would still be good without the grease nipple, for those people that know about oil cans.

These days I use waterproof trailer wheel-bearing grease for that sort of job (£7.50 a tub), it works well, or even silicone grease at three times the price even better.

Thanks for the bolt sizes.

Howard.

2x300TdiDef.

PS. A stainless skt. Hdd. Bolt would make it even better!!

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You already have servicable bits in them ! A new brass ball, screw, spring, nut and tab washer are about a pound per hinge from paddocks. :)

Mo

Ok thanks, I will order some on monday. Went to dealer to have Disco serviced and they wanted €50 for new ones, did not offer servicable parts. They dont call it rip off Ireland for nothing.

Graham

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Excellent idea - thanks, Rusty.

The Socket Head Cap Screws should last for years as they are a higher spec steel than ordinary bolts. it will probably be the hinges that wear again.

Thanks for the sizes too, most helpful - now where did I put that 8mm drill....

H

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Do I detect a hint of sarcasm :huh:

Of cause you dont, this is how ideas progress; by waves of wild imagination.

I saw some lads the other week, and they had led. tyre valve caps, and led. screenwash nozzles!!!

I routinly fit little red (captive) grease nipple covers on all sorts of machinery, it shows I care. :i-m_so_happy:

Very best regards,

Howard.

2x300TdiDef.

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I was thinking that maybe a nice stainless mushroom socket head would look really smart ;)

Colin.

It depends if any other type of bolt has a shoulder/shank long enough, you dont want the hinge pivoting on any threads as this will wear the door part quickly, imagine if you will using a set screw (with no shoulder) instead of a bolt, the 8*80mm has a shoulder just long enough.

Plus I nicked them from work!

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It depends if any other type of bolt has a shoulder/shank long enough, you dont want the hinge pivoting on any threads as this will wear the door part quickly, imagine if you will using a set screw (with no shoulder) instead of a bolt, the 8*80mm has a shoulder just long enough.

Plus I nicked them from work!

Yep, I understand that. These are the type I was thinking of: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/M8-x-80-STAINLESS-BU...id=p4634.c0.m14 I know the picture doesn't a shank on the bolt but I think most true bolts over 50mm long have 30mm of thread and the rest is Shank (if memory serves me correctly). I have bought these type before, not sure it was from this seller though, so I will ask the question before I order them.

I think they look a little less obtrusive in most applications, the disadvantage of them is that you have very little to get hold of when you round the Hex off.

Colin.

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Yep, I understand that. These are the type I was thinking of: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/M8-x-80-STAINLESS-BU...id=p4634.c0.m14 I know the picture doesn't a shank on the bolt but I think most true bolts over 50mm long have 30mm of thread and the rest is Shank (if memory serves me correctly). I have bought these type before, not sure it was from this seller though, so I will ask the question before I order them.

I think they look a little less obtrusive in most applications, the disadvantage of them is that you have very little to get hold of when you round the Hex off.

Colin.

Let us know what the seller says re shank length, they'd finish the job off nicely!

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