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rangerover advise please


Hamish Grundy
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hi, i have just bought an E reg rangey for £300! ! its gas converted and only covered 45k!! its been sat for 6months but fired up first time, basicaly i want to know if there is anything i should know about the gas conversion (maintenance etc)?

thanks

hamish

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I don't think anyone can offer you help unless you offer a bit more info! What type of system is it? Do you know the mfr?

I personally know nothing about LPG convetsions, but the people that do can only help you with a bit more from you first! :rolleyes:

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I don't think anyone can offer you help unless you offer a bit more info! What type of system is it? Do you know the mfr?

I personally know nothing about LPG convetsions, but the people that do can only help you with a bit more from you first! :rolleyes:

i have no idea what system it is, i have no idea about gas....i prefer things u can see!! there is a large distribution type thing on the passenger wing with loads of pipes going to it if that helps. what is mfr?

thanks

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hi, i have just bought an E reg rangey for £300! ! its gas converted and only covered 45k!! its been sat for 6months but fired up first time, basicaly i want to know if there is anything i should know about the gas conversion (maintenance etc)?

thanks

hamish

Was this the 7 seat conversion one on e-blag?

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Was this the 7 seat conversion one on e-blag?

no it was in a barn near me.

the gas conversion has BRC stamped on it if that helps??

also when i first start it it runs perfect but after a minute or so starts to splutter and the revs drop and it starts to 'hunt' if i change over to gas its runs fine.

any ideas??

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also when i first start it it runs perfect but after a minute or so starts to splutter and the revs drop and it starts to 'hunt' if i change over to gas its runs fine.

any ideas??

If it runs fine on gas, would suggest probably fuel injection issue (unless timing is miles out). Yours will be a 'flapper' injection at that age (assuming not been changed). There are loads of threads and a diagnostic manual in the Technical archive about faultfinding this.

As a starting point, on the basis that it runs a bit ragged after around a minute, I would hazard a guess that the fuel is not being adjusted as the engine warms up. So start with the temperature sender for the efi (on the left hand front of the engine next to the plenum you will see 2 sensors with wires next to each other. The one you want is the back one.) These are cheap and do cause problems.

One slight warning here. You can spend ages diagnosing these efi systems which seemingly check out OK yet still run funny. The ECU's also get unreliable and even though all your components check out OK it may be translating the data incorrectly/not at all.

Final thought. If it has been left standing for a while, have you given it a full service and replaced consumables (plugs, dizzy cap etc.) and maybe worth a fuel sytem cleanout with one of the 'snake oil' products.

Happy hunting!!!

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If it runs fine on gas, would suggest probably fuel injection issue (unless timing is miles out). Yours will be a 'flapper' injection at that age (assuming not been changed). There are loads of threads and a diagnostic manual in the Technical archive about faultfinding this.

As a starting point, on the basis that it runs a bit ragged after around a minute, I would hazard a guess that the fuel is not being adjusted as the engine warms up. So start with the temperature sender for the efi (on the left hand front of the engine next to the plenum you will see 2 sensors with wires next to each other. The one you want is the back one.) These are cheap and do cause problems.

One slight warning here. You can spend ages diagnosing these efi systems which seemingly check out OK yet still run funny. The ECU's also get unreliable and even though all your components check out OK it may be translating the data incorrectly/not at all.

Final thought. If it has been left standing for a while, have you given it a full service and replaced consumables (plugs, dizzy cap etc.) and maybe worth a fuel sytem cleanout with one of the 'snake oil' products.

Happy hunting!!!

hi thanks for the information, i have plugs leads and dizzy cap and rotor arm in the post, thought that would be the best place to start. i have 2 spare ecus from my racer that il try on the weekend so at least i can rule that out, i also have a new temparture sender which i can also try, thanks for the help and il let you know how i get on.

p.s what does the 9th injecter do as i have been told to remove this which i have but i havnt realy noticed any change.

many thanks

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Does as above. Again a possibility and easy to check. Just disconnect it! It is on the right hand side (drivers) of the plenum at the top (usually blue IIRC) in the middle - you can't miss it all on its own. Just undo the plug (FYI - the other end of it connects to the sensor in front of the one I suggested you change).

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Does as above. Again a possibility and easy to check. Just disconnect it! It is on the right hand side (drivers) of the plenum at the top (usually blue IIRC) in the middle - you can't miss it all on its own. Just undo the plug (FYI - the other end of it connects to the sensor in front of the one I suggested you change).

i have diconected it and it makes no change to how it starts or runs, so does that point to a problem?

it always starts fine and fast idles as it should.

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i have diconected it and it makes no change to how it starts or runs, so does that point to a problem?

it always starts fine and fast idles as it should.

Disconnecting it turns it off but does nothing if it is leaking and over fueling the engine. Try putting a clamp on the fuel pipe and see if that makes a difference.

Steve

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update..........changed water temp sensor today....runs fine on petrol and gas....warmed it up switch from gas to petrol....revs drop then idle at around 1000rpm, try and boot it and revs wont go over 3000rpm, switch to gas revs freely.....any ideas?

Okay, so that's a result :)

From the sound of that, next thing to check is the ignition timing - I'm betting it's been set well advanced to get the best out of the LPG at the expensive of a rough idle on petrol. With distributor timing it will always be a compromise (with a distributorless system you can run separate ignition maps depending what fuel you are on), as LPG likes more advance (IIRC standard advance at idle is 8oBTDC, I used to run my LPG truck at about 13oBTDC, which made it pull much better on LPG but gave it a rough idle on petrol). It also likes a different curve, but there's not much you can do about that with a distributor.

Can you get hold of a timing light and find out what advance you're running?

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Okay, so that's a result :)

From the sound of that, next thing to check is the ignition timing - I'm betting it's been set well advanced to get the best out of the LPG at the expensive of a rough idle on petrol. With distributor timing it will always be a compromise (with a distributorless system you can run separate ignition maps depending what fuel you are on), as LPG likes more advance (IIRC standard advance at idle is 8oBTDC, I used to run my LPG truck at about 13oBTDC, which made it pull much better on LPG but gave it a rough idle on petrol). It also likes a different curve, but there's not much you can do about that with a distributor.

Can you get hold of a timing light and find out what advance you're running?

this is all starting to make sense now....! no i havnt got a timing light, can anyone reccomend where i could get one from?

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this is all starting to make sense now....! no i havnt got a timing light, can anyone reccomend where i could get one from?

Pretty much any car place. Unless you have really high spec HT leads (which sometimes stop them working) the easiest type to use clamp around an HT lead (normally to cylinder one - front left side of the engine, as you look from the drivers seat). Mine has a dial on the back which you adjust until the TDC mark on the crankshaft pulley is appearing under the timing marker, then you can read the advance off the dial, which is much easier than using timing tape on the pulley - they are more expensive though (think mine was about £70 rather than £30-40 for a basic one). I only bought it because it was what I could get off the shelf when I needed one in a hurry, but I've used it a lot and am glad I did now!

Alternatively, maybe you know someone you can borrow one from?

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