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getting a 200 turbo to work


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went for a drive in my defender(disco engine) now i am runnig it in after a rebuild but pulls like a train up to 2k after this its like a wet fart i placed a boost guage loosly on the pipe and i am achieving three psi

so do i need to adjust anything or is turbo knackered waste gate actuator ?

after2k on th revs there a slight miss but its been cold everytime i ve drivein it so could be it needs warming up

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IIRC you had to move the actuator & compressor housing, maybe the actuator diaphragm has split & not giving any boost or there's a big leak in the boost pipe between injection pump & actuator, or the diaphragm in the boost capsule on top of the pump is split/holed.

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ok now i am confused

so last nite i took the diaphram out all looks ok no splits no wear actually looks pretty new

so i put it all back togeather checked the pipe from pump to turbo t piece no splits holds pressure.

so i took my boost guage out of it packagin and linked it in just after pipe runin to waste gate actutaor.

on start up all is good as i slowly start to rev th eengine the boost guage does not move on higher revs it is very slightly suckin air from the boost guage as i get -3 psi

i am stumped to no what it is

sound to be like the turbo is not workin or the t piece is blocked

any help guys would be great as i am truely stumped

many thanks

matt

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on start up all is good as i slowly start to rev th eengine the boost guage does not move on higher revs it is very slightly suckin air from the boost guage as i get -3 psi

I'm not sure if this is right, but I thought you had to check the boost with the engine under strain i.e. the vehicle moving foot flat down in 3rd accelerating? Might be why the figure was low (or i misunderstood what you wrote and you did this anyway!)

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if you take the pipe between the airfilter and turbo off, can you see the rotor inside?

does it spin? simple check, but the turbo on my 200tdi was stuck when i fired it up for the first time, and did move til it was prodded with a stick.

if it was a problem with the wastegate actuator not functioning correctly, i would expect it to OVER boost, as the wastegate is closed until the pressure builds up and then the waste gate is opened.

if you are getting blue smoke, that suggests oil is being burned!! thats bad.

if the airfilter is blocking, as suggested above, then the turbo will be trying to suck air out of the crankcase, and so sucking oil in.

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If you are sitting there revving the engine, then you will go no boost. You have to put the engine under load, so drive it up a slight incline or more. You have to extend the boost guage to the inside of the vehicle with a length of hose so you can watch it as you drive.

Les.

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I think Ian S's reply is useful, Matt.

Check to see if the thing is spinning and that there's no play in the shaft or rotor.

Your outlet pipe is in a bad place, too. I seriously think you need to rotate the unit so there aren't any partial restrictions in the pipework.

Then, what about using your compressor to blow all lines out - big and small. Just to be sure.

Negative boost is a sign the turbo's had it, but checking thoroughly for any blocks in the system MUST be done thoroughly first. Really, really make sure of this before spending any more money on the old girl.

Once you're sure, we'll sort out a date to get things done.

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just done this with my 110 [200Tdi] rpm/boost gauges can be seen, the big jump in boost reading is when I increase to max rpm [3850]

th_MVI_0515.jpg

unfortunatly, the rev counter needle isn't very visible, the first shift of the boost needle was around 2000rpm & the largest shift was at 3850rpm [max rpm]

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I would suggest that it you are getting a boost reading while just sitting there revving the engine, then there's something wrong. Holding it on the brake, slipping the clutch, putting it's nose up against the wall, will not work. Extend a pipe from the original boost pipe to the inside of the cab and drive the vehicle - that way you will get a true reading throughout the rev range.

Les.

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