02GF74 Posted February 24, 2006 Share Posted February 24, 2006 It is not easy to remove the crank pulley from a V8 (unless yours is loose like GBMUD's) with standard 2 or 3 arm pullers, such as those from Machine Mart because the diameter of the puller is so large that the arms keep flipping off! How this happens is illustrated below. So by using two thickish plates of steel shaped with a grinder, a 3 arm puller spider and 2 puller arms, a wider puller can be assembled. Slap it over the pulley, turn the screw and off it pops! Oh, but rememebr to put the big cranshshaft bolt into the crank otherwise the bolt will not be long enoiugh (not that I would do something like that ) Ofcourse you could resort to using large screwdrivers or chisels as levers if you don't mind bending the pulley or cracking the alloy timing cover but that is entirley up to you Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mo Murphy Posted February 25, 2006 Share Posted February 25, 2006 I though GBMUD has a 200Tdi not a V8 ???????? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
02GF74 Posted February 27, 2006 Author Share Posted February 27, 2006 I though GBMUD has a 200Tdi not a V8 ???????? He dreams of having a V8; problem is likely to be the same; the puller arms tends to pop off unless the pulley is small diameter. Ofcourse if the pulley is a loose fit this is not needed; in most cases they are not that tight but tight enough not to be budged easily). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimbob292 Posted February 22, 2011 Share Posted February 22, 2011 Very good idea, how did you get the nut off the crankshaft, i.e. lock out the crankshaft? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reb78 Posted March 1, 2011 Share Posted March 1, 2011 For my tdi, i made a tool to lock the crank. Dead easy and bolts to the crank pulley. I presume you could do something similar for the v8? Description and pictures of the locking tool in this thread: http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=38651&hl Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scube Posted March 1, 2011 Share Posted March 1, 2011 "Nut off the crankshaft" This may seem to some like a crazy idea but it has worked for me on several occasions without fail. Socket on the nut lock substantial knuckle bar wedged onto the chassis or something else unmovable and flick the starter.. make sure the bar cannot move up or it will flick off. Off it comes no problem. No need to lock crank or struggle Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reb78 Posted March 1, 2011 Share Posted March 1, 2011 "Nut off the crankshaft" This may seem to some like a crazy idea but it has worked for me on several occasions without fail. Socket on the nut lock substantial knuckle bar wedged onto the chassis or something else unmovable and flick the starter.. make sure the bar cannot move up or it will flick off. Off it comes no problem. No need to lock crank or struggle Thats ok to undo the nut, but how do you torque it up again correctly though? I'm not convinced that tightening the bolt with the crank locked by leaving the vehicle in gear with the handbrake on is adequate as i suspect you might slip the clutch before you reach the required torque, plus play in the drivetrain makes this difficult for some. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Escape Posted March 2, 2011 Share Posted March 2, 2011 Thats ok to undo the nut, but how do you torque it up again correctly though? I'm not convinced that tightening the bolt with the crank locked by leaving the vehicle in gear with the handbrake on is adequate as i suspect you might slip the clutch before you reach the required torque, plus play in the drivetrain makes this difficult for some. The bolt needs to be torqued to 270Nm (for a V8), which is less then the maximum output of almost all LR engines. So the clutch should be just fine holding the crankshaft still when tightening up (best to put in 5th to avoid the wheels crawling up and over the chocks). With an autobox, it's not so straightforward. I use an old belt, clamped tight around the pulley and looped around part of the chassis. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scube Posted March 2, 2011 Share Posted March 2, 2011 I have an auto and for that wee problem I take out the starter motor and stop the starter ring from moving with a large screwdriver. The larger the better Undoing the crank bolt can be done by yourself however doing back up you really need two people. Maybe not the correct way but it works just as well. The starter ring teeth are very strong and have not damaged any yet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mickeyw Posted March 2, 2011 Share Posted March 2, 2011 I too have an auto. I removed the small round cover plate on the bellhousing, and stuck a bar in there that locked against the arms the torque converter bolts to. Then socket and big crack bar on the crank nut, and heave ho. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted March 2, 2011 Share Posted March 2, 2011 Yep, as above, remove starter, I use a small piece of angle iron which grips two teeth and wedges very nicely in place Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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