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Propshafts - and clunking


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Gents

I have had a serch through previous propshaft based questions, but would just like someone to confirm the following: Apologies if this takes a while to read, your help will be much appreciated

Firstly:

I have two large clonking noises, when i take up drive. This happens in any gear, as soon as i come off the trottle and then reapply i get 2 clonks. The noise seems to come from the rear, but i wouldn't like to swear that.

I therefore have concluded that on the face of it there is slack in drive train, or theA frame ball joint is worn.

As first step in identifying slack in the drive train i planned to look at the props. (i haven't got as far as removing one then the other).

However i did a quick inspection tonight, which brings me to my second question:

How do you actually know if prop needle roller bearings are worn? -

When i twist the rear prop (handbrake off) there is around 10degrees of "free rotation" before i meet resistance (being wheels trying to turn). There is also a slight bit of play between the two halfs of the rear prop - but very slight.

If i repeat this on the front prop then i get more like 25degrees of "free rotation", before it engages load.

So i presume at the moment the two clunks i get are from the slack described,

Clonk one: the rear prop engaging load after 10 degrees of rotation.

Clonk two - front prop engaging after a further 15 degrees (25-10degrees)

- Finally how do i solve this?

many thanks in advance.

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Cheers Gents for the comments,

When getting a bit more physical with the rear prop i think i do require a new and suspect that i will remove the excesive clunking on taking up drive. Front prop is fine.

But further to this has anyone got any comments on the following:

By jacking up each wheel and checking relative movement between the wheel and propshaft, i have found that i can rotate the rear prop about 10deg before the jacked up wheel starts to turn. This is repeatable on both rear wheels.

Would i be right in thinking that as the slack is seen equally on both wheels, (plus I tried wobbling each tyre to check for slack - nothing noticable), that the slack is more likely to be in diff, rather than each hub drive flange? My question is - is this slack in the diff normal?

The front two are also the same, but with slightly more than 10deg slack.

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hi

to check the UJs grab hold of each side of the joint and try to twist back and forth any movement means a new cross should be fitted, the sliding joint in the middle can be checked in the same way any play means a new prop.

Have you checked that the bolts that hold the prop to the diff and transfer box are all tight as these came loose on mine and made a clunking noise as described. The other place to check is to remove the inspection plate on the back of the transfer box and look for play between the gearbox output shaft and the transfer box input gear.

HTH

Matt

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Cheers guys

But i think i'm fine in replacing the prop to remove the noise, however my question was really to do with the diffs, is the movement i'm see (essentially) slack in the gears usual?

The test i did is detailled below:

But further to this has anyone got any comments on the following:

By jacking up each wheel and checking relative movement between the wheel and propshaft, i have found that i can rotate the rear prop about 10deg before the jacked up wheel starts to turn. This is repeatable on both rear wheels.

Would i be right in thinking that as the slack is seen equally on both wheels, (plus I tried wobbling each tyre to check for slack - nothing noticable), that the slack is more likely to be in diff, rather than each hub drive flange? My question is - is this slack in the diff normal?

The front two are also the same, but with slightly more than 10deg slack.

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