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Whirry noise on coasting


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The Beastie got an MOT a fortnight ago and one thing needed was a new steering box due to excessive leaks. Not sure if it is connected to this issue but just in case ..

Anyway everything sounds hunky dory when motoring but when I slow down to a stop, with gear either in neutral or clutch in, there is a nasty whirring or clunking noise coming from the sort of gearbox/drive train area under the cab. It does not seem to be there when under power, and the other day I rolled a bit down a hill without the engine on and it made it still.

I have not had a chance to go under but if it isn't something obvious (and I have a suspicion it isn't otherwise I would hear it when engine powering) what sort of thing should I be looking for?

It is a puzzle but I don't know how serious it is. I do need to fix it since we are away for a decent trip over the next three or four weeks and do not fancy breaking down and ruining plans :ph34r:

Any thoughtss or pointers would be really appreciated.

Thanks

Malcy

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The Beastie got an MOT a fortnight ago and one thing needed was a new steering box due to excessive leaks. Not sure if it is connected to this issue but just in case ..

Anyway everything sounds hunky dory when motoring but when I slow down to a stop, with gear either in neutral or clutch in, there is a nasty whirring or clunking noise coming from the sort of gearbox/drive train area under the cab. It does not seem to be there when under power, and the other day I rolled a bit down a hill without the engine on and it made it still.

I have not had a chance to go under but if it isn't something obvious (and I have a suspicion it isn't otherwise I would hear it when engine powering) what sort of thing should I be looking for?

It is a puzzle but I don't know how serious it is. I do need to fix it since we are away for a decent trip over the next three or four weeks and do not fancy breaking down and ruining plans :ph34r:

Any thoughtss or pointers would be really appreciated.

Thanks

Malcy

Look at prop shaft UJ's. Especially the front one

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I had exactly the same, it was the propshaft UJ's as the previous poster said. I plumped for replacing the propshaft, they're about £50 at Paddocks. It depends on your mechanical skills but replacing UJ's can be fiddly but replacing the whole propshaft was fairly straightforward. 8 nuts and bolts to undo.

Dave.

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Thanks guys. I presume when I get under and shuggle it I will feel it a bit loose?

The tip about replacing whole shaft (with new UJs at each end I assume) sounds a reasonable one.

Million dollar question which I know is almost impossible to ask but how urgent is the repair - i.e. should I treat it like toxic and not drive the truck till sorted; or do I just keep driving till I get new shaft and UJs and then fix asap??

Any advice, without strings of course, would be valuable since would prefer it not to shear on me whilst in motion!

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Mine did what you describe and it was a fault with the transfer box. Does it do it under load with main box in gear and the transfer box in neutral - that would tell you if its one of the boxes or the props onwards. Try that first then try examining and greasing the UJs.

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Also check the handbrake is not binding slightly as this can give a noise which sounds scary - basically a "high point" in the drum catches the shoes on every revolution and makes a horrible snatching banging noise in the rear driveline.

Back off the adjuster a bit and/or bash the expander in if it is an old type handbrake with the linkage exposed which it might be on a 200 - they seize up. Then go for a run without using the handbrake and see if the noise has gone.

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Mine has started doing it as well, not too bad though ..

I've ordered the bits (RTC3346HS) from paddocks and i'll get round to it soonish :rolleyes:

My van does about 130 miles a day, if that helps you with how urgently i'm dealing with it.

If left it with start to cause premature wear in the transfer box and diffs. The will go bang :P

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Also check the handbrake is not binding slightly as this can give a noise which sounds scary - basically a "high point" in the drum catches the shoes on every revolution and makes a horrible snatching banging noise in the rear driveline.

Back off the adjuster a bit and/or bash the expander in if it is an old type handbrake with the linkage exposed which it might be on a 200 - they seize up. Then go for a run without using the handbrake and see if the noise has gone.

I too have had it come from the handbrake - mine was caused by something (I think rust) inside the drum. I have to go down a long hill off-road every day, so I just held it back on the handbrake down there a couple of times and it cleared, but when you first hear it you wonder. It disappeared in my case if you just pull the handbrake on a little - must just brush it initially.

Nigel

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Thanks guys. I presume when I get under and shuggle it I will feel it a bit loose?

The tip about replacing whole shaft (with new UJs at each end I assume) sounds a reasonable one.

Million dollar question which I know is almost impossible to ask but how urgent is the repair - i.e. should I treat it like toxic and not drive the truck till sorted; or do I just keep driving till I get new shaft and UJs and then fix asap??

Any advice, without strings of course, would be valuable since would prefer it not to shear on me whilst in motion!

My UJ was really loose, very obvious when you move it side to side by hand. I guess you could squeeze it full of grease and go on for a while but if you're going away probly best to get it changed.

Regards,

Dave.

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before you order anything, just check that the prop bolts are tight, mine weren't and i got a very similar noise. Otherwise totally agree with the advice. In terms of running like that, you might find the extra vibration from the prop will knacker the diff and trans box bearings if used for a long time

Good luck

Dave

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ok, it's either the U-joints or the hand brake drum.

i've just had this problem lately and it turned out that the handbrake pad were sticking and not wanting to release sometimes. eventually it jammed up and i had to open the entire hand brake drum out and lo and behold, the whole drum was sticky.

so it's off with the entire thing and new drum shoes and it works like a charm now.

if you ever had the t-box rear oil seal leak, it could very well be this.

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OK, an update and not sure what it means.

Lovely day here so took afternoon off since clambering about under The Beastie much easier when dry :lol:

Front prop shaft has no seeming wobble; nuts look tight and the UJs greased up OK.

Rear propshaft again has no seeming wobble other than at the handbrake drum which I think is normal. The UJs greased up OK but my puzzle is that when I rotated a rear wheel it did not turn the prop shaft as it usually does. Also if I run the rear O/S wheel forward then the rear N/S seems to go backwards and vice versa.

I have checked and the transfer box is in normal High position.

To me this looks like transfer box or a diff problem but never had to try and puzzle transmission woes out before. I am sure that before when greasing the rear UJs I just wound a wheel until the prop shart was in the right position.

Any thoughts??

Thanks

Malcy

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OK, an update and not sure what it means.

Lovely day here so took afternoon off since clambering about under The Beastie much easier when dry :lol:

Front prop shaft has no seeming wobble; nuts look tight and the UJs greased up OK.

Rear propshaft again has no seeming wobble other than at the handbrake drum which I think is normal. The UJs greased up OK but my puzzle is that when I rotated a rear wheel it did not turn the prop shaft as it usually does. Also if I run the rear O/S wheel forward then the rear N/S seems to go backwards and vice versa.

I have checked and the transfer box is in normal High position.

To me this looks like transfer box or a diff problem but never had to try and puzzle transmission woes out before. I am sure that before when greasing the rear UJs I just wound a wheel until the prop shart was in the right position.

Any thoughts??

Thanks

Malcy

If both rear wheels are off the ground then one will rotate backwards on opposite wheels as you describe.

If your car drives when in 2wd high or low then you are barking up the wrong tree. If the rear diff was totally goosed then the only way to drive it would be in 4wd.

Your props can't properly be checked on the car. They need to be removed and then feel each joint.

Take your props off and check them again before worrying about anything else

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OK, sounds like props need to come off. Delighted to have the wheel rotation aberation confirmed as normal - I have never really looked at that before?

Only question is I thought Defenders were permanent 4wd or am I again mistaken?

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Only question is I thought Defenders were permanent 4wd or am I again mistaken?

You're right, it is permanent 4wd but with a centre differential to allow the front and back wheels to rotate at different speeds, ie. going round corners or if one wheel is spinning in mud. in just the same way as the front and rear axle diffs do. Then you have the centre diff lock whch ensures that the front and rear axles are driven at the same speed.

When J.N was referring to 2wd or 4wd I'm sure he meant diff lock in or out.

By the way do you get any vibration at about 40 - 50ish similar to an out-of-balance wheel but faster (higher frequency,) thats a fairly good indication of a UJ badly on it's way out causing the prop shaft to vibrate.

I got this on mine a while back and one journey of about 200 miles was enough to destroy the seal and bearing on the back axle input shaft and cover the back door with gear oil.

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Still think you should start the vehicle up, put the transfer box in neutral then the main box in third and see if the noise is there. If it is, its not your drivetrain after the transfer box - will save time dropping props etc to check UJs. When mine did this, everyone said it was the UJ and it was actually the transfer box.

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OK Managed a drive last night and the noise, whilst still there, was less pronounced.

Perhaps getting the grease in (it was only 4 or 5 months since I last did it) made a difference.

Will try the various other diagnostics later if it clears up better. Want to get to the bottom of it since do not like the idea of something failing at 60mph which I sense would be messy!!!

Thanks for suggestions and will hopefully be back with some further info later

Malcy

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