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Bleeding brakes on 300Tdi Disco (non ABS)


freeagent

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Try one of these chaps they are ace. Pull it out! Not Cheap but are less hit and miss than the easi-ish bleed (watch the pressure on that one). Get a good compressor hanging on it and its the best remedy. This is supposed to be our hobby not our chores!! kit up and enjoy

CHT588 Pneumatic Fluid Extractor Product Code: 040210588

linky

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<_< Discussions of this sort makes me well aware that there are many "brainy" folks here and that we the illitterates must keep our mouths shut! I am so glad I have my defender to which i spend endless hours under to "blow away" the frustrations and heavy debates going on both at home and at work. However, I did learn something about the properties of fluids. I also got into the world of aviation! :blink: I took my dictionary a couple of times to be certain of the definitions. (Scratching behind ears and yawning a little... re-reading the subject and shocked with awe- thinking "I wish I was that clever")

Sometimes the simpliest methods are the best!! ;) Just go for the 15 pounders Ezibleed :unsure:

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Right, now the armchair Engineers have stopped whipping each other with wet tea towels I thought it safe to venture back on here....

I've ruled out play in wheel bearings because i've jacked up all four corners and given them a shake + i get the same problem when the truck is not moving.. pedal travel is excessive on first stroke, then firms up when the air is compressed...

I did try to bleed it with a borrowed eezibleed at the weekend, but the top of the pressure vessel wouldn't seal properly (seal damaged) so I lost all the pressure in my spare tyre fairly quickly.

I was also a bit alarmed at how much my fluid reservior swelled up when under pressure (only had 20psi in tyre) so think i might stick with two person manual bleeding..

I've had a good read on the web and have realised that my manual bleeding technique leaves a lot to be desired, so i'm going to give it another go with the missus pushing the pedal (i think my biggest mistake was alowing the pedal to move upwards while the bleed screw was open, alowing air to be dragged back in)

and try to do it properly.

Teabag- thanks for your kind offer, I'll be in touch if I need a hand.

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Right, now the armchair Engineers have stopped whipping each other with wet tea towels I thought it safe to venture back on here....

:lol: :lol:

Yes, pedal must remain pressed until bleed nipples are nipped back up. If pedal is released, air will be sucked back in.

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right, I had another go last night... making sure the pedal stayed down until the bleed screw was closed.

The brakes feel a lot sharper this morning!

I think there might still be some air trapped in there somewhere though, so I'm going to run it around for a few days then have another go...

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  • 8 years later...

Interesting read fellas, but it took a lot of gab to elicit fundamentals like keeping the pedal down..........and still nobody mentioned whether there is a most effective sequence (used to be to start from the most distant corner).  I need to replace the MC on my ABS -equipped TDi 300 and thought that the answers to any model-unique techniques would reside in  the current 'post'.  Silly me!  Guess that's the difference between teachers and doers.  Back to self-help and CDF.

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On 1/17/2018 at 4:07 PM, SQUARED said:

Interesting read fellas, but it took a lot of gab to elicit fundamentals like keeping the pedal down..........and still nobody mentioned whether there is a most effective sequence (used to be to start from the most distant corner).  I need to replace the MC on my ABS -equipped TDi 300 and thought that the answers to any model-unique techniques would reside in  the current 'post'.  Silly me!  Guess that's the difference between teachers and doers.  Back to self-help and CDF.

Read the workshop manual.  It is online.

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  • 2 months later...

I fitted new rear calipers to my truck and when it came to bleeding the system, the peddle remained spongy. After unsuccessfully trying everything suggested on this thread, (installing new brake pipes and master cylinder etc) I turned to drink -- two bottles of beer, Stella.

Then with my head lightly softened I looked again at the Workshop manual and found, looking at their pictures, that I'd attached my right rear caliper to the left side and vice versa. This results with the bleed nipple being sat below the brake piston and unless you put your truck upside down, the air in the piston will never be bled out. 

So if you've tried everything and it still doesn't work, just drink beer. 

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