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Clutch fork gone or master cylinder?


selectcase
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I have never had any issues with the clutch on my 98 300tdi disco until tonight - on the way home the gears grunched once or twice and i thought the clutch might be on the way out - then i depressed the clutch pedal and it stayed down(just a well i was on a country road at the time and not in town - i pulled over thinking either the master or slave cylinder however once the rac had recovered my car and got it home i notice the clutch pedal only goes 2 thirds of the way down then stops dead/solid :(

I am thinking this might be a worn/broken clutch fork as there is no fluid loss and no previous problems - if this is the case I will replace it as I have done other clutches etc on my series lr - however any tips on this job - is it easier to remove the engine or the gearbox? I have an engine crane but no pit or ramp

any advice gratefully recieved

cheers

will

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When mine went the pedal just went 'solid'. The fork was hard up against the back of the bell housing with the pushrod fully extended, hence 'solid'.

Is your slave leaking into the bellhousing?

Re: best way. Unless things have changed since LT77 boxes it's easier to move box back than lift engine. Same as series, disconnect props, tunnel and gear levers. Then support box and back of engine (you've got a hoist? I've done it with jacks) remove bell housing bolts and hope it parts. Mine didn't (stuck together for 20 years?) and it needed an 'uncomfortable' amount of levering to part them. You should have enough room before it hits mid body cross member (the arched one on a 110, 90s don't have one?). A bit more space can be made by removing handbrake drum but you shouldn't need it.

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Cheers for advice - just had another cursory look and the pedal only goes arond 1/2 way down so yes i think its the clutch fork. I had a look at the technical archive (great stuff) wehre Les details the gearbox removal so i will have a ponder which way to go - its due a cambelt change so I may as well do that at the same time and put a clutch in while its split.

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Thanks for the offer but I picked one up at Tor on Friday - Nearly got the engine out - I am going the engine route as there are a few other jobs i need to do with the engine out. I just have to get the bolts off the bellhousing today - oh joy oh rapture - not.

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Thanks for the offer but I picked one up at Tor on Friday - Nearly got the engine out - I am going the engine route as there are a few other jobs i need to do with the engine out. I just have to get the bolts off the bellhousing today - oh joy oh rapture - not.

The fun ones are over the top.

Lift the engine and remove the engine mounts.

Lower the engine as far as pos and the top bolts become a whole lot easier.

Leave the lower ones in place until after you have lifted the engine again and supported the front of the gearbox.

Steve

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The fun ones are over the top.

Lift the engine and remove the engine mounts.

Lower the engine as far as pos and the top bolts become a whole lot easier.

Leave the lower ones in place until after you have lifted the engine again and supported the front of the gearbox.

Steve

Well today was a difficult and demorilisig day, I have done loads of engine changes, gearbox jobs on various landrovers i have owned over the years but not a 300tdi disco before. I removed the mounts and lowered the engine as far a possible until the timing cover just touched the power steering box and those bolts are still damm difficult - I got all of them apart from the top central one which i will attempt tomorrow - i can reach it with extension bars but of course its in line with the gearstick - i have even removed the central console etc to improve access but that top one looks a Bu**er to get to and undo - the others were really tight and needed a 1/2 drive torque wrench to get them to move any advice on the last one greatly appriciated.

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just did a clutch change today on my 300 tdi disco thank the gods the very top nut on the bell housing wasnt present the rest of the topish one we reached with a selection of extentions and flex nuckels one person under putting the socket on the other loserning the nut through the centre consale in side

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Managed to get the last bolt off this morning - used a new surface drive socket 1/2 inch drive to make sure it didnt slip - a range of extension bars and reducer down to 3/8 drive and 1 uj half way along to allow it to angle up in to the centre console/gearstick hole - 45 minutes to get this combination sorted but thank got it worked - that nut is not going back on

Thanks to Les for his excellent article on removing the centre console for access - couldnt have done it wthout that :)

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iv'e done this job a few times now and it's easier to drop the gearbox , the way i do it is remove both props and all the gubbins from around the gearstick ,disconnect the wiring from the box and then remove the gearbox mounts/xmember then let all the weight of the gearbox hang on the back of the engine. that should twist the engine on it's mounts so that you can easily get to all the bellhousing bolts oh leave a bolt or two at the bottom of the bellhousing till your ready to take it out

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