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Roll Cage Mounts?


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Have a lookie in the North Off Raod Cage thread

But

In simple terms a 6mm Plate welded to the cage and another welded to the chassis, and then the 2x bolted together

The bottom plate that welds to the chassis also will need shaped plates made on all 4x sides so as to have the gap

between the chassis and the 6mm plate sealed all way around.

Heres 1 from a while ago, part done, the rear part between the plate and the angled top of the chassis was

made up and welded up so was completely joined to chassis at the back with another triangle section made

up off the 90, and then refitted and welded to what had so far been done all in all a nightmare - and around 3+ hours per mounting :(

post-22-1238757328_thumb.jpg

These were the worst as there is s*d all room to work in and getting to it is "fun" :lol: I found making up

templates in cardboard 1st then remaking them in steel and grinding / tweaking and then welding in bit by

bit was the easiest way in tight spaces

Nige

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It depends , But if your going for MSA spec which is advisable ,They specify a minimum of 125mm2 and a minimum of 6mm thickness .

Then the bolt hole must be no less than 11/2 the diameter of the bolt away from the edge of the plate .

The MSA rules are a bit of a minefield but once you have read them a few times and digested them it s plain sailing .

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Silly question that doesn't apply to me - why have a bolted plate at all if you've built a trayback with no boot floor to bolt through? You could make it removable in a stronger way if you're not constrained to bolt in a parallel plane to the boot floor.

Be interested how John . MSA specs of course ,

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Silly question that doesn't apply to me - why have a bolted plate at all if you've built a trayback with no boot floor to bolt through? You could make it removable in a stronger way if you're not constrained to bolt in a parallel plane to the boot floor.

Because its a simple and straight forward way of making the cage removable. If you have any better ideas then I'd like to hear them but this does the job nicely. Didn't see any point in re inventing the wheel!

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Hey, I didn't say I had any better ideas... I'm just challenging the conventional thinking.

Here's my take on the matter. If you want the cage to be removable then it needs to be bolted on. It'd be neater to have a sleeve and cross-pin affair (as the front hoops are shown in another thread here) but the angle might make it difficult to remove.

If the loads are coming down the stays from an impact on the front hoop then the four bolts will be loaded partially in shear if the plates are parallel to the floor. You could remove this shear loading and make the cage stronger if the square plates were perpendicular to the stays, eg sloping up at the back edge like a miniature spoiler would.

That said, these 'floating' plates would then snag on your spare wheel and anything else you tried to put onto the trayback. It seemed silly to keep the same sandwich plates when there wasn't a floor for them to sandwich (you don't have the through-roof sandwich for truckcabs), but on reflection for a bolt-on cage they're probably pretty sensible at floor level anyway. :ph34r: Ignore me...

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  • 4 months later...

What is the best method of installing the front hoop?

cut hole for the cage to go in and then take the whole wing off? or can you manage by taking the outer skin off?

Another question, How do you get the bolts in to hold the wings to the bulkhead when the roll cage is in the way?

Thanks

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