Bobtail-Jay Posted April 3, 2009 Share Posted April 3, 2009 Hi all Im After Some Pics On Ways To Do the Chassis Mounts When Fitting A RollCage For the Rear Hoop And Front Hoop On A Defender 90 Any Advise will Be Nice?? Jay. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hybrid_From_Hell Posted April 3, 2009 Share Posted April 3, 2009 Have a lookie in the North Off Raod Cage thread But In simple terms a 6mm Plate welded to the cage and another welded to the chassis, and then the 2x bolted together The bottom plate that welds to the chassis also will need shaped plates made on all 4x sides so as to have the gap between the chassis and the 6mm plate sealed all way around. Heres 1 from a while ago, part done, the rear part between the plate and the angled top of the chassis was made up and welded up so was completely joined to chassis at the back with another triangle section made up off the 90, and then refitted and welded to what had so far been done all in all a nightmare - and around 3+ hours per mounting These were the worst as there is s*d all room to work in and getting to it is "fun" I found making up templates in cardboard 1st then remaking them in steel and grinding / tweaking and then welding in bit by bit was the easiest way in tight spaces Nige Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stewy1984 Posted April 3, 2009 Share Posted April 3, 2009 i used 70x70x4 box section welded to the 6mm plate, then welded to chassis. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ciderman Posted April 3, 2009 Share Posted April 3, 2009 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bobtail-Jay Posted April 3, 2009 Author Share Posted April 3, 2009 Got Any More Pics ? Jay. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ciderman Posted April 4, 2009 Share Posted April 4, 2009 Ok heres some more , Not a standard 90 chassis I know , But the ideas are the same . All plates and support bearers are from 6mm plate . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve 90 Posted April 4, 2009 Share Posted April 4, 2009 Here! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bobtail-Jay Posted April 4, 2009 Author Share Posted April 4, 2009 Cheers For The Pics Guys Jay. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bobtail-Jay Posted April 4, 2009 Author Share Posted April 4, 2009 What Size Do The Plates Have To Be? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ciderman Posted April 4, 2009 Share Posted April 4, 2009 It depends , But if your going for MSA spec which is advisable ,They specify a minimum of 125mm2 and a minimum of 6mm thickness . Then the bolt hole must be no less than 11/2 the diameter of the bolt away from the edge of the plate . The MSA rules are a bit of a minefield but once you have read them a few times and digested them it s plain sailing . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turbocharger Posted April 4, 2009 Share Posted April 4, 2009 Silly question that doesn't apply to me - why have a bolted plate at all if you've built a trayback with no boot floor to bolt through? You could make it removable in a stronger way if you're not constrained to bolt in a parallel plane to the boot floor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ciderman Posted April 5, 2009 Share Posted April 5, 2009 Silly question that doesn't apply to me - why have a bolted plate at all if you've built a trayback with no boot floor to bolt through? You could make it removable in a stronger way if you're not constrained to bolt in a parallel plane to the boot floor. Be interested how John . MSA specs of course , Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevesmuddy90 Posted April 5, 2009 Share Posted April 5, 2009 hi mucker heres a couple of mine.... cheers steve... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve 90 Posted April 5, 2009 Share Posted April 5, 2009 Silly question that doesn't apply to me - why have a bolted plate at all if you've built a trayback with no boot floor to bolt through? You could make it removable in a stronger way if you're not constrained to bolt in a parallel plane to the boot floor. Because its a simple and straight forward way of making the cage removable. If you have any better ideas then I'd like to hear them but this does the job nicely. Didn't see any point in re inventing the wheel! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turbocharger Posted April 6, 2009 Share Posted April 6, 2009 Hey, I didn't say I had any better ideas... I'm just challenging the conventional thinking. Here's my take on the matter. If you want the cage to be removable then it needs to be bolted on. It'd be neater to have a sleeve and cross-pin affair (as the front hoops are shown in another thread here) but the angle might make it difficult to remove. If the loads are coming down the stays from an impact on the front hoop then the four bolts will be loaded partially in shear if the plates are parallel to the floor. You could remove this shear loading and make the cage stronger if the square plates were perpendicular to the stays, eg sloping up at the back edge like a miniature spoiler would. That said, these 'floating' plates would then snag on your spare wheel and anything else you tried to put onto the trayback. It seemed silly to keep the same sandwich plates when there wasn't a floor for them to sandwich (you don't have the through-roof sandwich for truckcabs), but on reflection for a bolt-on cage they're probably pretty sensible at floor level anyway. Ignore me... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ciderman Posted April 6, 2009 Share Posted April 6, 2009 To be honest John , The way our trucks are changing lately the bolt on thing is probably best for removal and refit . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hybrid_From_Hell Posted April 7, 2009 Share Posted April 7, 2009 ^^^ Can't you progress and advance the mounting method a bit ?... weld on a huge zip instead of nuts and bolts and save time in the future ? Nige Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turbocharger Posted April 7, 2009 Share Posted April 7, 2009 The way my truck's been changing lately I'm considering fitting a set of bicycle pedals... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sean f Posted April 7, 2009 Share Posted April 7, 2009 If you want a good laugh have a look at the roll cage mounts on a tray back being written about in this month LRM page 98. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bobtail-Jay Posted August 23, 2009 Author Share Posted August 23, 2009 Right Now ive got the back mounts sorted, on to the front now whats the best way, the front hoop tube going inside the mounting tube or front hoop tube going over the mounting tube? Which ways best? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wee_arthur Posted August 23, 2009 Share Posted August 23, 2009 What is the best method of installing the front hoop? cut hole for the cage to go in and then take the whole wing off? or can you manage by taking the outer skin off? Another question, How do you get the bolts in to hold the wings to the bulkhead when the roll cage is in the way? Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lansalot Posted August 24, 2009 Share Posted August 24, 2009 Why not fasten the wings to tabs on the roll cage tube instead ? Stick a few tabs down the line, a handful of dzus fasteners and you'll never worry about the captives in the pillar going awol again ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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