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Trouble with drop arm eng joint


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I'm trying to get the tie-bar that connects to the drop arm end joint separated from the joint and it ain't budging! I've hit it 7 ways to Tuesday with a hammer -- the rod seems to be stuck to the end joint threaded bolt. The last thing I want to do is damage the ball joint because I don't need the headache of changing the joint. All I want to do is change the TRE joint at the other side of the bar, and it would be much easier to do if I could get the bar off the drop arm end joint. Does anyone have any suggestions? Again, I really don't want to damage the drop arm end joint because I know it's a major hassle to change.

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Hi George,

I assume your talking about the steering drop link to track rod joint? The track side of the joint is manufactured with flats on it to facilitate the use of a puller. You just can't get enough weight behind a hammer in the right place to shock it off if well stuck. Make sure you get both ends of the track rod freed up on you won't get the tracking adjusted. Another job for the big hammer or gas axe make sure you use plenty of copper slip when you put it back together.

Rob

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On commercials, hitting the cast arm alone will not free the joint.

The trick is to have a bar levering the top (threaded part, stick the nut back on a few turns) of the balljoint down.

With you swinging on the bar, and striking the arm at the same time you'll have better luck.

It's a bit of a balancing act doing this on your own though.

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Either buy a proper ball joint splitter from Halfords or your local motor factors, or if you're still intent on hitting it, use another hammer to brace the arm on the opposite side. That way all the force from the blows go into the arm and not just into knocking the joint sideways.

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Either buy a proper ball joint splitter from Halfords or your local motor factors, or if you're still intent on hitting it, use another hammer to brace the arm on the opposite side. That way all the force from the blows go into the arm and not just into knocking the joint sideways.

Ball joint splitter....

Best regards.

Howard.

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Put the nut back on (and make sure the other end of the drag link is still secured) and apply some lifting pressure with a jack under the arm, then give the bracket a tap as you have been doing already.....this method has never failed me.

As mentioned above, apply a liberal coating of copper grease when putting back together.

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I managed to get a joint splitter and that did the trick -- just barely -- it was really stuck. I thought the joint splitter would break first.

A new, frustrating complication though: After getting the new TRE on the other end and attempting to screw on the nylon nut, I've discovered that the TRE threaded bolt is moving with the nut and not allowing me to tighten it. This is my first TRE replacement and I'm wondering if I have a faulty though new TRE -- it's a Lemford. Is there a trick to get the bolt to stop spinning? For such a simple job, this has turned into a major pain in the a**.

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Got it sorted in the end. Just wound the nut very slowly, an easy solution. I just initially panicked because I thought I had painstakenly installed faulty new TREs. Anyway, thanks to all for the advice. It's been educational.

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Three methods that I have used to stop the thread spinning:

1/ Put the jack between the chassis and drag link and apply downward pressure so the taper sits firmly in the hole.

2/ Use an impact gun (air or battery powered) - possibly not an option at the drop-arm end...

3/ An elaborate system of levers and fulcrums to do the same as number 1...

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