TheRecklessEngineer Posted April 6, 2009 Share Posted April 6, 2009 I know it is possible to shorten the nose on some water pumps. I have a rangie pump with only a few mm clearance between the threaded bit the fan goes on and the radiator. Is it possible to chop off the threaded bit? If it was an old one, I'd do it anyway, but it is spangly new so not quite so keen to experiment! Edit: And in fact, while I'm at it and rather than starting a new thread....How much difference does it make using a cold air feed from outside the engine compartment rather than an intake just behind the rad? Running pipework to feed cold air will be a PITA, but if it is going to be 10% more power then I'll do it... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mike4444244 Posted April 6, 2009 Share Posted April 6, 2009 I assume you have a v8? the water pump off a P6 is shorter IIRC, I had to fit one for the kit car engine because it was v short on space, i think you either need to use a different groove or even a different pulley though... Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LittleBlue88 Posted April 6, 2009 Share Posted April 6, 2009 I chopped alot off my 3.5 rangie pump to get it into my 88,then found out the hard way that the pulley wasnt a press-on fit(one rad later.....) ended up having the pulley welded on! On the 3.9 type pumps its should be fine to cut the threaded part off at the pulley is just a bolt on jobbie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
task Posted April 6, 2009 Share Posted April 6, 2009 I'd be carefull you don't remove too much, the shaft has a fair bit of meat in the threaded section. I found I haven't needed to remove anything from the front of my RRC water pump so far, although I did try and it's incredibly hard. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheRecklessEngineer Posted April 6, 2009 Author Share Posted April 6, 2009 Thanks for the replies. I might see if I can get my hands on an old one to chop up and examine. I'm not using the series rad, I've got a nice big BMW one with a monster fan. And I still need to squeeze in an air con condenser too! (More details on this coming, and my build thread is well overdue for an update...) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
task Posted April 6, 2009 Share Posted April 6, 2009 Air Con, in a series Deff update the buildthread soon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landmannnn Posted April 6, 2009 Share Posted April 6, 2009 Last time I did it I cut off about 1 cm with a grinder. (The shaft is hardened so a hacksaw won't touch it) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted April 6, 2009 Share Posted April 6, 2009 Why not trim all the unnecessary cowling back and move the rad forwards? Gives you an extra ~6" of space then. That said, my V8 fitted even with the standard setup. Here's the position of the engine currently, millions of space between pump & rad (which sits in front of the PAS box, just!) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheRecklessEngineer Posted April 6, 2009 Author Share Posted April 6, 2009 Thanks for that Fridge. All the cowling is already gone! I think my engine is sitting a bit further forwards that yours....My oil filter is nicely in line with the diff. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted April 6, 2009 Share Posted April 6, 2009 Thanks for that Fridge. All the cowling is already gone! I think my engine is sitting a bit further forwards that yours....My oil filter is nicely in line with the diff. Damn, just how far forwards are you putting this lot? I've got enough room between engine & rad to stand in Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zim Posted April 7, 2009 Share Posted April 7, 2009 Thanks for that Fridge. All the cowling is already gone! I think my engine is sitting a bit further forwards that yours....My oil filter is nicely in line with the diff. you'll then need a PC1 from think automotive... http://www.thinkauto.com/takeoff.htm this will replace your current oil filter setup and is better than a sandwich plate (i've hit them before by mistake) G Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheRecklessEngineer Posted April 7, 2009 Author Share Posted April 7, 2009 I've got my hands on an old one and taken the grinder to it. The pulley flange is an interference fit on the shaft of the pump - so really you can take it back as far as you like, providing you leave enough material to transfer drive to the shaft, and to hold the pulley on. zimsoundz - yes, I will be putting on a remote filter. I'm still quite a way from having it roadworthy! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rizla 1 Posted April 8, 2009 Share Posted April 8, 2009 I cut mine of with the 9" grinder right back to the pulley then welded round it - done 2 now and both are no problem Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landmannnn Posted April 8, 2009 Share Posted April 8, 2009 yes, I will be putting on a remote filter. I'm still quite a way from having it roadworthy! You will need the expensive one from the mgb v8, a normal sandwich type wont give enough clearance. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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