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New rear x-member


white90
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Theres always my homemade 90 "Look a Like + winch intergrated" Bumper thread,

and the one also worth a lookie when BBC did his new HD one ? :)

Mine : http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=13645

BBCs : http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopi...;hl=crossmember

And then Les Hs strengthened std one : http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=6398

Nige

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I'm in the process of building mine, 160x80x5mm box, which is pretty damn close to the original, tapered and capped ends, 3mm rear chassis extensions/replacements, with JATE mounts and tow brackets. All drawn out in Solidworks.

any use?

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Pics of rust/damage

the O/S where it joins the x-member has corrosion the N/S apparently there is none that I can find with a hammer/screwdriver, the x-member itself seems very sound throughout.

I may repair the rust(cut it out replace as required)

that will let me make a x-member at my leisure rather than before the next event.

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All superb examples many thanks and thanks to Charles for the offer of help and guidance on what to do.

All together these will make a great tech archive topic as a complete list of all examples.

that would be fab if all the various rear-crossmember threads were in one place!

jase

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Tony - 1st pic is corrosion between the inner and outer pieces of the crossmember ends. Almost impossible to prevent it getting worse as the rust is internal and pushing the spot welded join apart.

2nd pic - looks like a pin hole? If it is, then again - internal corrosion coming through. No reinforcing internal plate at that point, so no distortion of the metal surface (swelling).

All the other pics of corrosion are all from internal corrosion coming through, and although the other side looks ok, I bet it's not far behind. I would replace the crossmember/repair the chassis as needed, then put a large drainage hole in the bottom of each chassis rail at the lowest point of the curve to allow flushing out. You can make a crossmember that's the same profile as original that's either wide open on the inside, or a total sealed box. I don't think there's any off the shelf crossmember for what you do that will be suitable without some form of modification. It would probably work out a lot cheaper to fabricate one.

I can make one for you that's the same profile as original and up to 6mm plate max, but you would have to nail it on :)

Les.

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Thanks Les, very kind of you to offer I need to have it letterboxed as well for the rear winch, as time isn't plentiful

I spent some time today investigating with Mr grinder looking for corrosion

it is limited to the O/S as in the pics above.

I will get a section of Box from Luke in order to fabricate a x member at my leisure as I have effected some repairs today, I cut out the rot and welded in some 3mm plate. this will suffice till the new x member is ready or something else happens to the existing one.

I drilled some large drain holes and the O/S one deposited rusty scale from it the N/S one only had some mud to offer

with a torch and a keen eye the N/S has faired far better it seems.

Welding upside down is far harder but at least it is on and stronger than what was there.

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Feel free

each has had a pass or two

and it certainly won't fall off

prettiest it may not be functional it is.

Welding for me has been nearly all practice without instruction( I know it shows)

Maurice showed me the beginnings a few years back

at least I can get the weld to stay up there and not blow 10 fuses trying as I have done before now..

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