badgerbob Posted April 8, 2009 Share Posted April 8, 2009 hi all can someone please help i have just about had enough of landrovers a couple of months ago i put a 2inch lift on my defender td5 what a big mistake this is turning out .the rear prop started to vibrate so i changed the ujs it ok at the moment the front is now vibrating so i have changed the ujs but the vibration is still there do i need a new double cardin prop to sort this out i have spent a fortune on this so money is tight i dont want to buy a new prop and it doesnt sort this but it is driving me mad Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NicTheOrange90 Posted April 8, 2009 Share Posted April 8, 2009 Hi BadgerBob, Its frustrating when you change one thing and then something else takes over. It might help if you could let us know why you did the 2"lift and what you did (ie springs or spacers etc), and where you got the kit from (did they give any advice etc). Lifting a vehicle suspension effectively changes quite a few things, for example the axles are now at a different angle (ie the input to the diff is now higher) and this (as you have noted) can put stresses on other parts.. What is your vehicle and what mileage ? IMHO when a Defender is lifted the radius arms and trailing arms should also be changed and also the props for ones that are designed for the extra 2" and change of angle. I did just that on my old 90 and had perfect steering, and no problems with UJ's Also as things are tight, would you consider putting standard height back on the vehicle ? (or have you ditched old parts ?) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
badgerbob Posted April 8, 2009 Author Share Posted April 8, 2009 the landie is a defender td5 csw with 89k on the clock i done the springs and shocks because i have a roof tent and are going on hoilday to the alps the springs and shocks are terrfimma and the firm i bought them from said you will not need to change anything i have just changed the pan arm bar and ordered so new radius arms for the front is this a help Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveG Posted April 8, 2009 Share Posted April 8, 2009 ordered so new radius arms for the front is this a help nope, and in fact it might make vibrations worse. Either get rid of lift and go back to standard or +1" height or get a double cardan front prop. Cheers Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dantd5 Posted April 8, 2009 Share Posted April 8, 2009 Some of us spend sleepless nights when we get such problems. This is nothing compared to some we face. Having a land rover is like having a kid with serious unpredictable illness. Hope you sort this out fast!!! Welcome to the world of STRESS and constant ailments!!!! B) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scube Posted April 8, 2009 Share Posted April 8, 2009 Hi Check to see what angle your rear pinion shaft is at, compaired to the trasfer box if the angle between the two is grater than say 25drg or origanal if you can remeber. Then you can buy tapered spacers to go under the spring cup on the axle to pitch the axle back towards oraginal angle. Much cheaper than caster correcting trailing arms. Also check to make sure that the yoke of the main propshaft (not the flanges) is not bottoming out on the flange that you bolt to the axle or transfer box (propbind) You will be able to see marks on the prob if this is happening. Hope this helps. Scube Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nicks90 Posted April 8, 2009 Share Posted April 8, 2009 castor corrected front arms wll definitely make it vibrate worse - as it moves the nose of the diff down so it no longer points where it should be - puts the prop totally out of phase (is that the correct terminology?) and causes vibration. When you fit a lift, you often go through a set of UJs very quickly - as they are operating out of the angles they are used to. I know it sounds daft, cos they`re still within the angle limits of the joints, but I think UJs just like to complain when you add a lift. Especially as they have probably been on the truck for its whole 89K life, that aint bad. As you still have vibes, did you split the prop when you did the front UJs? Could be you put the prop back together fully lined up. On my tdi, the UJs are slightly out of alignment to prevent vibes. When i did my front UJs i put the prop back together fully lined up and it vibe'd like mad. So i pulled it in 2 and put it back together with the UJs misaligned like they should be and all was well again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
badgerbob Posted April 13, 2009 Author Share Posted April 13, 2009 thanks guys just had a look at the prop again the front uj is had it so i will change it and let you know how i go thanks for your replys Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
badgerbob Posted May 3, 2009 Author Share Posted May 3, 2009 just a update for anyone watching this thread i changed the uj and the vibration has gone thank god what would we do without the forum Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anderzander Posted May 3, 2009 Share Posted May 3, 2009 Can I tag a quick question on here ..... What size are the prop bolts ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
badgerbob Posted May 3, 2009 Author Share Posted May 3, 2009 standard looks like the props had never been off why ask ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keith Keir Posted May 3, 2009 Share Posted May 3, 2009 There 9/16 th's I think well my new 'prop' bolts are Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TD5 power Posted May 3, 2009 Share Posted May 3, 2009 just to add they are UNF thread which is less common in that size. matt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anderzander Posted May 3, 2009 Share Posted May 3, 2009 Thanks guys - what's the length? I'll pick some up from my local engineering suppliers ..... hopefully! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted May 3, 2009 Share Posted May 3, 2009 Microcat says 3/8" UNF x 1" LR part 509045P Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anderzander Posted May 3, 2009 Share Posted May 3, 2009 Thanks Ralph - brilliant. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TD5 power Posted May 3, 2009 Share Posted May 3, 2009 just remembered western is right B) according to lr series the bolts a 3/8unf by 1" but the spanner you need is 9/16 hth matt edit too late again lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted May 3, 2009 Share Posted May 3, 2009 just remembered western is right B) according to lr series the bolts a 3/8unf by 1" but the spanner you need is 9/16hth matt edit too late again lol I'll confirm 9/16" hex heads, I use 2 x open end spanners to remove/fit mine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mo Murphy Posted May 3, 2009 Share Posted May 3, 2009 Remember that if your are changing the bolts on the transfer rear output flange, the bolts are longer to accommodate the the thickness of the handbrake drum. The 1" bolts won't be long enough. HTH Mo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anderzander Posted May 3, 2009 Share Posted May 3, 2009 Thanks - I'm actually fitting a pair of x-springs and the fitting instructions say that the bolts for the retaining plates are the same as the prop bolts. Its not very clear - I presume the standard rear spring plate bolts are the same thread size as the prop ones - but not long enough to include the retaining plate, whereas the prop ones are. So I've got to wait to fit them until I've picked up some 3/8" UNF x 1" bolts..... bugger! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted May 4, 2009 Share Posted May 4, 2009 Remember that if your are changing the bolts on the transfer rear output flange, the bolts are longer to accommodate the the thickness of the handbrake drum. The 1" bolts won't be long enough.HTH Mo Transfer box front output flange to front prop flange use bolt BT606101L 3/8UNC x 11/4" --------------- rear ------------------- rear -------------------------- FRC3602 3/8UNF x 13/4" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Al1975 Posted August 5, 2009 Share Posted August 5, 2009 Hi my name is Ales and i write from Slovenija. I also made a 2inc lift and my front prop shaft is also wibrating. I reed the topic and I dont know what this mens "When you fit a lift, you often go through a set of UJs " Some help would be more than welcome! Thank's and best regards Ales! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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