Les Henson Posted April 11, 2009 Share Posted April 11, 2009 This is how I've converted a coil sprung axle off a 1987 110 to go on a SWB S3. There are a few ways of doing it I think, so this is just one (and the only way I could figure it out). This is the axle casing alterations only - steering etc has yet to be figured out. Fortunately, I have a series front axle to take measurements from, so it was just a case of copying distances, diff nose angle, spring seats, etc. Fortunately - the distance between the chassis rails is the same for 90/110 and series vehicles, so the bump stop can stay where it is, and only clean up and fabricate the spring seats is necessary. Nearly all the metal used is 8mm, with the exception of the bump stop blanks, which are 6mm. The axle is stripped right down, H/D diff pan was welded on a few weeks ago, guts of the diff are removed, but the housing has been replaced in order to copy across the correct diff nose angle (same as the series). First - remove unnecessary brackets - leaving just the bump stops. Careful removal of the welds/rust takes some time and a bit of care. The bump stop mounts are open one end, so are blanked off (6mm plate) The bump stops are wider than the spring seats, so it's of no use using them as a reference. Mark the dead centre of the axle, and scribe a line right round it. Measure the seat distance from the centre of the series axle, and also from the edge of the axle end (divide up and discrepencies - I had 2mm). Mark the inner and outer edge of the spring seat on the axle case. Series spring seats are 4-inches long x 2 1/2" wide. Correct spring seat location is 143mm in from the axle end, and 336mm in from the centre line (both ends have to be the same). A bare defender axle case is 1088mm long - if you do the maths, there's 3mm not accounted for somewhere, but is probably me tarting things up with an angle grinder/flap wheel. Easy end first - the long side. The axle tube is 80mm in diameter, so a couple of saddles to fit, plus the spring seat, which has a 12.5mm hole in it for the leaf locating pin. Assembled on the bench, welded inside and out, cleaned up on the outside only. Note the angle to set the diff nose. Clamped in place, angle checked, then welded on - inside and out. Awkward little pokey hole, so filled it with weld and then tidied it up. Other end next - this is more difficult as it's right on the profile of the diff housing, so no plate on one side, but the other side has a saddle - very similar to the other side. Spring seat first - exact same measurements as the opposite end, and same angle too (I cut this one off twice before it was in the right position). Weld into position as far as possible. Saddle on the outside - 80mm dia. Welder on full chat - max wire and amps Birds eye view of the diff nose angle. Ends blanked off in a similar fashion to the other end. The final thing - showing both spring seats and the noticeable angle of them. A few important things to remember - Make sure you are aware of the axle position on the bench - relative to the spring seats at all times (you could set the diff nose angle the wrong way). Make sure both spring seats are in exactly the same position/angle as each other and also relative to the vehicle the axle is being fitted to. Don't use less than 6mm plate - anywhere. I used 8mm to be on the safe side and also 'cos Fridge told me to (thanks for your help m8) Measure everything at least twice - if you get it wrong, strange things will happen to the vehicle when you drive it If anyone has done this themselves, then I would appreciate comments on what I've done - right or wrong. Les. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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