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crankshaft pulley nut


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Hi folks,

just been called round to help a mate out who is having some trouble getting the crankshaft pulley nut off his 200tdi.

the timing belt snapped last week, so he got everything ready to go and tried the usual trick of putting a breaker bar on it and flicking the starter so the bar hits the chassis rail - and in theory - should crack the nut off.

Nope. :(

hmmmmmm

tried it again allowing the breaker bar a bit of travel before hitting the chassis - Nope :(

Ok, plan B. my motor was behind his - so put his in low box reverse and get the breaker bar all set up and i will give him a quick snatch and hope that frees it off. Nope :(

That just locks up 2 of his wheels and i drag him backwards.

getting angry now. :angry:

So we take the 4 10mm nuts out and remove main pulley exposing the bit bolt. Hit it a few times to give it a 'shock' and try again.

Nope :(

Heat it up a bit and hit it again. Nope. :(

Put the 3ft breaker bar on, then a piece of tube over that and a half shaft in the end of that - 6 foot breaker bar!!! In gear with me standing on the brakes and he heaves like mad. Big lad is Hadyn... Theres that much force on the flippin bar now that the engine still starts to turn - its causing the bloody clutch to slip!!!! :angry:

Loads more heat and really welly it with the lump hammy and try again. Clutch starts to slip and then he ends up snapping his breaker bar :ph34r:

That bolt is in there good and proper.

Does anybody have any ideas of how to get this flipping thing off, or is he looking for a new engine?

cheers for any help,

Nick

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Just done the belt on my 200Tdi. Had the luxury of an empty front chassis however also found mine very 'kin tight. I used a length of 60 x 6 mm angle notched around the central spindle and fitted two of the bolts to retain it and react the torque being applied, angle should then sit on top of offside chassis rail. Then used breaker bar and extension which enventually won :) . If still not working suggest you try and get hold of an impact gun for the benefit of some shock loading.

Hope this helps

Rob

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A decent rattler gun and patience. :D

I went through a lot of what you tried and finally gave up (got angry) and just sat there with the air impact gun going until the compressor cut in. I then waited until the receiver was fully charged again and repeated the cycle. And repeated. And repeated.. At first nothing happened - I can't remember now, but I think that it took upwards of ten goes before it moved.

They can be a little .. 'difficult' ;)

Roger

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undo mine with my breaker bar & my brano handwinch extending handle slide over the breaker bar handle, never let me down yet.

wish it hadnt have let us down - total of 6ft breaker bar, in gear with brakes fully on and exerted enough force to make the flipping clutch slip!

Hadyn just found a link to a bracket bar thingy that bolts into the 4 holes on the pulley and braces against the chassis rails, so he can then swing above mentioned 6ft breaker bar in the other direction without the clutch slipping under the force.

supposedly it works... we shall wait and see.

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Yes I was turning it the right way - it was just mental tight. I locked the flywheel, put a 6-foot length of scafoold pole on a 3/4" breaker bar and then me and an 18-stone friend of mine played monkeys on it. It went with such a bang that I thought the bolt had snapped.

Les.

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Yes I was turning it the right way - it was just mental tight. I locked the flywheel, put a 6-foot length of scafoold pole on a 3/4" breaker bar and then me and an 18-stone friend of mine played monkeys on it. It went with such a bang that I thought the bolt had snapped.

Les.

More seriously Les.

Do you think that tool has been heat treated, and left too brittle? I regard my Difflock holding tool as being well made, and usefull, and even if it were made from mild steel, to be of adequate strength.... Maybe bend a bit, like the 'abused' hand of a clock, but to 'go pop' is not right, I hope you sent it back.

I like good tools, and in this case the breaker bar should be have been the weakest link, I could accept that.

If it is mild steel maybe I should 'beef mine up a bit', what do you think?

Best regards.

Howard.

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So, not that I've had this specific trouble, but... I work in heavy industry and we have really big bolts. The normal way to loosen a large and tight nut is with a "slug wrench". Not sure what they are called in the UK (Google says "Slogging Spanner".

Like this: ind_slugging_wrenches2.jpg

IME, they are the best solution and a lot better than a big snipe. You can imitate one somewhat with a heavy bar.

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Basically a spanner you can abuse with a big hammer to free off tight bolts.

I think a more common name for them is a flogging spanner, I used them in quarries etc. you need space and a good swift slap with 14lb hammer. :lol:

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I think a more common name for them is a flogging spanner, I used them in quarries etc. you need space and a good swift slap with 14lb hammer. :lol:

I too, Know them as 'flogging' spanners, but not just for use with hammers. In ships engine rooms they have some BIG nuts, so they use a 'Tup', which is a billet of steel suspended on chains, and is swung by two or more men. 'Just the thing for the job'.

You know when you've been 'TUPPED'.

Howard.

Isle of Skye.

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