Deface Posted April 15, 2009 Share Posted April 15, 2009 About 4 months ago i drowned my 200 tdi 90, i had to put a new engine in it so i bought an MOT failure disco ( i think it was a 1990) so i got a mate to put it in because i was busy with work etc etc, when he put it in he used the disco flywheel housing, so i have rencently taken the engine back out to do rectify this and while it was out i put the original timing case alternator back on and i also did the head gasket while i was at it, i put it back in today went to turn the key and nothing no ignition lights or anything. Ive checked and rechecked the starter motor wiring (im getting 12v to the starter), alternator wiring and all the fuses (although the fuse box is a little corroded after the bath). I was wondering if the water could of killed the alternator???? I didnt have much time to have a better investigation as im doing this on my lunch break in the car park. Any ideas??? cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted April 15, 2009 Share Posted April 15, 2009 quite possible, if you have the Discovery alternator try it with that fitted & have the original Alt. checked over/repaired. are both earth leads intact/properly connected, 1 from battery to main gearbox to transfer box joint bolts 1 from alt/PAS pump bracket to left hand chassis part of left engine mount Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Henson Posted April 15, 2009 Share Posted April 15, 2009 You don't need the alternator to start the engine - just to recharge the battery and power the electrics once it's running. I test run engines all the time with no fan belt on after doing a timing belt. What happens when you turn the key to start the engine - nothing? Some solenoids have two spade connectors on the back - you may have plugged the thin wire into the wrong one. Check that the thin wire becomes live when the key is turned all the way. If the the engine cranks, but doesn't start, then check the wire on the back of the injector pump (fuel cut off switch) - it should be live with the ignition switched on, and should stay live - even when the engine is being cranked. If the engine has been swapped, then it's possible that the earth main cable (by the starter motor fixing bolts), has been missed out. Les. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deface Posted April 15, 2009 Author Share Posted April 15, 2009 have checked the earth cables, all in place and in good condition. the engine wont turn over, no ignition lights come on, cannot hear the soleniod when i turn the key. i wil check ive got the thin wire on the right spade connector tomorrow. regaurding the alternator i was wondering weather the internals of it were damaged when i drowned it, would this cause the problem? cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigMac1 Posted April 15, 2009 Share Posted April 15, 2009 I had no dash lights and nothing on the key while out offroading once. The live from the starter motor to the ignition had come of the starter end. (Even though it was a ring terminal, and had been on for approx 6 months after i changed the starter) Just make sure you haven't forgot one of the wires, or its been trapped somewhere and cut through. Although this was on a 19J the starter and wiring is the same. Mick. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bishbosh Posted April 15, 2009 Share Posted April 15, 2009 Just to reiterate what Les said above, the alternator has nothing to do with this starting problem. It may have been killed by the dunking, but that would not cause your starting problem. What voltage have you got at the battery when cranking the engine (or trying to)? If the voltage drops off a lot when cranking then you may have a dead or low charge battery. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deface Posted April 16, 2009 Author Share Posted April 16, 2009 SORTED! Its not running yet but its turning over, just a fueling issue now. What happened was i put the wires that go from the alternator to the starter on the earth terminal rather than the live, i thought i checked them but i obviosly didnt check them hard enough. thanks fot the help guys its much appriated ethan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted April 16, 2009 Share Posted April 16, 2009 i put the wires that go from the alternator to the starter on the earth terminal rather than the live glad you found it & I will garuntee you won't do it again Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Henson Posted April 16, 2009 Share Posted April 16, 2009 If you have connected the live output from your alternator to an earth point, then it's likely you have fried it. Les. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deface Posted April 17, 2009 Author Share Posted April 17, 2009 I had it running today for a bit but it keeps konking out, i had i guy at work help me and he said that i had to adjust the pump timing, he said to do this by slakening the three nuts for the pump and move the pump untill it runs better, is this right? because i have doubts. could this be because there is still air in the system? And when it is running it is a bit lumpy ideas please Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
poohbear Posted April 17, 2009 Share Posted April 17, 2009 I'd check that the fuel system is clear of air and if that doesn't help have the timing cover off and check the timing. Lock the flywheel and re-check all the timing marks - it is real easy to be a tooth or two out on one of the sprockets. Could be a good idea to check the pump timing whilst your there. All in the tech archive if you have a search. Dave. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deface Posted April 18, 2009 Author Share Posted April 18, 2009 cheers poohbear, how do i check the pump timing?? ive read it up in the manual but im a bit confused. im not sure what they mean by the keeper plate and i cant find the pump locking screw. cheers again people Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted April 18, 2009 Share Posted April 18, 2009 looking at the injection pump from front of the vehicle. the keeper plate & locking screw sit on the body at about the 10 o'clock position directly below the right hand atachment stud/nut slacken the screw head, slide the keeper plate out & keep it safe as you'll need it later to refit it tighten the screw flly in to the pump body [can only be done if the pump is correct timed] just took this photo of my 200TDi injection pump & marked the keeper plate & locking screw by the end of my tape measure IIRC the screw head is 10mm hex. hth Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deface Posted April 19, 2009 Author Share Posted April 19, 2009 thank you very much western for making the effort to take a picture, it is much clearer now, ut does the flywheel have to bo locked when you screw it in? cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted April 19, 2009 Share Posted April 19, 2009 nope, set the engine to TDC as per the manual info, fit the timing pin in the pump & then move the keep plate/locking screw. note on the flywheel rim there are 2 slots [wide & narrow] you need the 'narrow' slot at the bottom 6o'clock position [you can see it through the wading plug hole with the aid of a good light source, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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