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Series X-Brake - 1st Pic


simonr

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Thanks to Mark Catchpole for the loan of his vehicle, this version has steamed ahead in the last week.

This version works - although the back plate needs a 2mm tweak with a grinder & welder and I need to cut a 20mm bigger diameter disk. As you can see, the caliper is about 10mm proud of the outside of the disk. It had to be moved out in order to clear the ring of bolts which hold the disk on.

xbs1.jpg

xbs2.jpg

The Series Drum is only 1/4" thick, whereas the disk is 10mm. I'm undecided whether to supply 6 longer bolts or have the disks machined to reduce the thickness of the middle to allow the use of original bolts. The former will be cheaper, but the latter will be quicker & easier to fit?

I will make 10 prototypes which will be sold at cost to individuals to try out and feed back any changes necessary. It needs at least a month of in-use trials before production will start.

It is my hope to launch them before Billing this year.

Si

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Simon,

Wont the skid plate on the bottom get bent up and rub against the disk?

I've not bothered with one on my series and havnt bent the disk yet! Mines made out of 10mm steel..........

Jon

The disk is 10mm - and the idea is precisely that it will bend up and touch the disk. It translates a longitudinal force, in the direction the disk is weakest into a radial force - in the direction the disk is strongest. That is a lot better than the disk bending backwards.

The skid is only 2mm away from the disk and elastic enough to spring back. Even if it does bend, far easier to bend it back using a stick than to make a warped disk flat again!

Si

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how much will you be looking for the developmental kit? just that I got my transfer case sat here with no hand brake at present and wanted to go disc before I complete the LT77 conversion and fit it

Also, how does the dimension of the set-up compare to standard? just that I can then figure if it will fit on my 109 once it's moved back 108mm towards the cross member due to the LT77 and adapter plate

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how much will you be looking for the developmental kit? just that I got my transfer case sat here with no hand brake at present and wanted to go disc before I complete the LT77 conversion and fit it

Also, how does the dimension of the set-up compare to standard? just that I can then figure if it will fit on my 109 once it's moved back 108mm towards the cross member due to the LT77 and adapter plate

The caliper stands about 20mm proud of the rear face of the original drum. If memory serves me, there is abour 150mm between the drum and the cross member - so there should still be 10mm clearance.

This version uses the original handbrake lever, but gets rid of the bell crank on the chassis and replaces the vertical tie-rod from the lever to the bell crank with one of adjustable length. If you are moving the transfer box back - you may have to at the very least lengthen the tie rod 7cm or so. The adjustment in it's length at the moment is just a 100mm M8 bolt. Replacing it with a length of high tensile studding would do the trick.

Not sure how much the kit, development or otherwise will be. There is more cutting, folding and machining than the defender version, although the caliper is £50 cheaper.

If I can find a low cost source of the imperial bolts which hold the brake drum on, 10mm longer than standard, it removes the need for machining which will take £7 off the cost minus the cost of the bolts. I could go metric bolts (probably M8) which would be cheap I suppose.

At this stage, I'm still experimenting with different design elements and don't want to pre-empt any pricing decisions before I have quotes for any of the manufacture.

One way or another, it will be cheaper than the defender version!

Si

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The caliper stands about 20mm proud of the rear face of the original drum. If memory serves me, there is abour 150mm between the drum and the cross member - so there should still be 10mm clearance.

This version uses the original handbrake lever, but gets rid of the bell crank on the chassis and replaces the vertical tie-rod from the lever to the bell crank with one of adjustable length. If you are moving the transfer box back - you may have to at the very least lengthen the tie rod 7cm or so. The adjustment in it's length at the moment is just a 100mm M8 bolt. Replacing it with a length of high tensile studding would do the trick.

Not sure how much the kit, development or otherwise will be. There is more cutting, folding and machining than the defender version, although the caliper is £50 cheaper.

If I can find a low cost source of the imperial bolts which hold the brake drum on, 10mm longer than standard, it removes the need for machining which will take £7 off the cost minus the cost of the bolts. I could go metric bolts (probably M8) which would be cheap I suppose.

At this stage, I'm still experimenting with different design elements and don't want to pre-empt any pricing decisions before I have quotes for any of the manufacture.

One way or another, it will be cheaper than the defender version!

Si

Shweet, no problems with making my own studs, got dies or can borrow if I aint got the required size, I've just been under my 109 and since it's got a standard transmission at present the distance from the drum face to the crossmember is 170mm so all should be good :)

I'm interested!

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Excellent news Simon. Glad to see this moving ahead. I'll be in for one - unless I can figure out how to make the disc conversion for my portals work off a hand brake...

Cheers,

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The disk is 10mm - and the idea is precisely that it will bend up and touch the disk. It translates a longitudinal force, in the direction the disk is weakest into a radial force - in the direction the disk is strongest. That is a lot better than the disk bending backwards.

The skid is only 2mm away from the disk and elastic enough to spring back. Even if it does bend, far easier to bend it back using a stick than to make a warped disk flat again!

Si

Fair point!

Although mines not one of Simon's kits I can vouch for how much better a disk set up is. Not only does the disk work far more effectively than the drum ever did, it also still works at the end of a hard days off roading (which my drum never did!)

Cheers

Jon

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Simon,

What Kev said. Mine's a coil srpung V8 Series and it just NEEDS one of your development kits.

I'll post on here when they are cut, folded & plated - should be about a week. I think there will be 3 up for grabs initially as I will keep one for reference and one is going to Mark (so I can get that bloody unstartable 109 off my drive! ;) )

P.S. Mark Where is the glow plug switch? It says on the dash "use heaters for 30 sec" but no clues as to how to switch them on!

Si

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I'll post on here when they are cut, folded & plated - should be about a week. I think there will be 3 up for grabs initially as I will keep one for reference and one is going to Mark (so I can get that bloody unstartable 109 off my drive! ;) )

P.S. Mark Where is the glow plug switch? It says on the dash "use heaters for 30 sec" but no clues as to how to switch them on!

Si

did I get my vote in earlier enough then :ph34r:

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si,

the the glow plugs are on the ignition switch. it is the position just before the starter engages. i will come over and get it moved into the warm for you if you like.

cheers

mark

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The caliper is operated directly from the std Series Hand Brake lever. Instead of the linkage coming down to the bellcrank on the chassis, it is connected directly to the calliper.

Mark

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