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Series II Clutch Cylinder / Brake Fluid


MRWOO

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The old girl (1959) has been parked up all winter and since starting her up again the clutch is not working. The pedal felt soft so I have bled the system today using some DOT4 brake fluid as it has a shared brake/clutch reservoir. To no avail this has not worked maybe because it is because I have used DO4 brake fluid instead of DOT3 clutch fluid?

Does anybody know whether I should just use different fluid or whether it's the master clutch cylinder? :)

Cheers Rich

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DOT 3 & 4 fluid can be happily mixed, so no problem. could be the friction plate is stuck onto the flywheel, normally happens if a vehicle hasn't been used for ages.

Thanks Western, is this a strip down job then to sort it out?

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  • 2 weeks later...

STOP!

Before you take it apart.

Try this cure for clutch friction plate rusted to the flywheel...

- Jack up one rear wheel (chock the others).

- First or reverse gear in 2WD

- Start the engine

- Hold clutch pedal down

- Build the revs up a bit

- Hit the brakes!

Obviously, this isn't the most 'mechanically sympathetic' fix, but it worked for my 109 after 8 years of inactivity.

You can also spray wd40 onto the clutch through the access hole in the top of the bellhousing to help release the blighter.

Cheers, Nick

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STOP!

Before you take it apart.

Try this cure for clutch friction plate rusted to the flywheel...

- Jack up one rear wheel (chock the others).

- First or reverse gear in 2WD

- Start the engine

- Hold clutch pedal down

- Build the revs up a bit

- Hit the brakes!

Obviously, this isn't the most 'mechanically sympathetic' fix, but it worked for my 109 after 8 years of inactivity.

You can also spray wd40 onto the clutch through the access hole in the top of the bellhousing to help release the blighter.

Cheers, Nick

Top tip: make sure there isn't anything in front of you, or behind you, if you try this technique, as things may get out of hand!

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Top tip: make sure there isn't anything in front of you, or behind you, if you try this technique, as things may get out of hand!

I agree this works as I have done it in the past.

Another slightly more mechanically sympathetic way is to use heat soak from the engine. First check to make sure your clutch is working OK; then just start engine in neutral and use something to hold the clutch pedal down all the way, a stick or breaker bar is ideal, wedge the free end against the front of the drivers seat. It can take up to an hour to free off as the engine warms up the clutch warms up, freeing off the clutch plate from the flywheel. You will suddenly hear a "thunk" noise and she will come free.

What I have done in the past is to set her up with the clutch down and then work on the engine timing (strobe), mixture, airfilter etc. so that I'm not sitting about getting bored.

If you are feeling brave, you can jack up one rear corner in 2WD on an axle stand and leave her in first as the gearbox and rear axle drag will help the process. When the rear wheel stops turning, she's come free.

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