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FIFTH GEAR OVERHEAT


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last few weeks being using my 10 yr old csw 300TDi to tow a horsebox. In all gears there is no problem, however once i go onto dual carriageway and try and engage fifth which it seems to cope with temp needle starts to rise to red , taking fright i move to fourth at roughly same speed and needle drops back down, whenever i try and go back to fifth same thing happens real fast. This is over even ground. Is the L/R not designed for towing in fifth or do i have a useless fan, it may have been recently replaced as i found an old one tossed inside when i got it. (Only bought the machine few months back and little use until now) welcome suggestions.

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last few weeks being using my 10 yr old csw 300TDi to tow a horsebox. In all gears there is no problem, however once i go onto dual carriageway and try and engage fifth which it seems to cope with temp needle starts to rise to red , taking fright i move to fourth at roughly same speed and needle drops back down, whenever i try and go back to fifth same thing happens real fast. This is over even ground. Is the L/R not designed for towing in fifth or do i have a useless fan, it may have been recently replaced as i found an old one tossed inside when i got it. (Only bought the machine few months back and little use until now) welcome suggestions.

i would check the radiator take it out flush it through has it still got all the alloy fins or has some gone check the thermostat mine had a similar prob if i thrashed it in fifth, if you can thrash a 300tdi and it was the radiator hope this helps,chris.

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I had exactly the same problem pulling a horse box on the back. My rad on closer inspection was knackered and also I did not trust the temp guage. I plumped for a digital one from Mcgill Motorsports as recommended by zulublue. It was a fairly easy straight swap and includes the sender so there's no uncertainty about exactly what temperature your water is at, or whether the sender you have is correct for your gauge, and at £18 was a bargain. http://www.mcgillmotorsports.co.uk/index.p...mp;productId=25

I went for their voltage gauge at the same time, I just wish they did a fuel gauge to complete the set :) I emailed them but they said there was no plan to make a fuel gauge :(

Regards,

Dave.

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I'd go for the rad as well....

As for the Land Rover coolant temperature gauge. When the needle is in the normal position the tempurature of the coolant could be 88deg C or 96deg C I think that gauge reads in bannanas....

I fitted an analogue gauge from SPA www.SPA-UK.co.uk. The gauge may seem expensive, not as expensive as a damaged engine.

mike

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You guys !!

Are just GREAT !! I think you are right .... as the lower part of the rad is slightly rusted and i ran it towing for 100 miles today in 4th all the way which didn't help fuel consumption but this way i never went to red and got there and back safely (with heart in mouth), even towed for a mile up a 40 degree hill in second without going to red and needle sitting in the middle. I will change the radiator and hopefully get up to 50mph on dual carriageway fifth gear This is why this forum is so GREAT ! pooled knowledge ! Thanks again all you great "replyers"

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I'd go for the rad as well....

As for the Land Rover coolant temperature gauge. When the needle is in the normal position the tempurature of the coolant could be 88deg C or 96deg C I think that gauge reads in bannanas....

I fitted an analogue gauge from SPA www.SPA-UK.co.uk. The gauge may seem expensive, not as expensive as a damaged engine.

mike

thats really a good idea, ..very neat idea, thanks too

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You'll probably find that in 4th, the higher RPM's mean the power your developing is spread out over more combustion cycles, keeping the combustion temperature reasonably low. In 5th, you require the same amount of power, however the lower RPM means each combustion cycle is larger, producing more heat, hence the temperature rising as your rad cant cope with the extra heat generated.

You might get away with flushing it, but its probably best just to fit a new rad.

I'm also sure the truck should manage more than 50 on a dual carridgeway, towing a horsebox or not...

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My instrument panel...Well the one in front of me.

The coolant gauge is in the middle. Straight in front of me. The gaugee is turned so that the needle is vertical at normal running temperature. That way I don't have to remember where the needle was should the temperature rise. The orange warning light is for the low coolant level warning. IMO essential with the 300Tdi.

The red button below ant to the right in the picture is a coolant level check switch which illuminates the green warning ligh if all is well.

img3081ce2.th.jpg

HTH

mike

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