ob1 Posted April 22, 2009 Share Posted April 22, 2009 Started to replce the bushes. The rear trailing arm link to axile bus seem to be welded inside. No amount of cursing and hammering makes it move. What to do? Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted April 22, 2009 Share Posted April 22, 2009 Blowlamp to melt the rubber to allow you to slide the inner collar out, then hacksaw a chunk of rubber out, and hacksaw again through the outer case, followed by a small chisel/punch to bend it inwards and break the rust seal and it will slide out. Careful not to nick the arm as you do it, although a round/half round file works well to clean up any rough edges With practice you can do this in about 5 mins per bush Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mo Murphy Posted April 22, 2009 Share Posted April 22, 2009 Welcome to the wonderful world of bush changing ob 1 Makes you realise why polybushes are so popular ! Mo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nicks90 Posted April 22, 2009 Share Posted April 22, 2009 yep - as above. but if the outer is really really stuck, it may be easier to make 2 cuts in the outer collar. A simple smack with a hammer against the side will often cause both halves to just fall out then. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
51bigG Posted April 22, 2009 Share Posted April 22, 2009 Blowlamp to melt the rubber to allow you to slide the inner collar out, then hacksaw a chunk of rubber out, and hacksaw again through the outer case, followed by a small chisel/punch to bend it inwards and break the rust seal and it will slide out.Careful not to nick the arm as you do it, although a round/half round file works well to clean up any rough edges With practice you can do this in about 5 mins per bush Just what I was going to add, the simplest and best action to take. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aragorn Posted April 22, 2009 Share Posted April 22, 2009 i took mine to a garage and let the guy use his press. Only cost a few quid and saved me a days worth of swearing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ob1 Posted April 22, 2009 Author Share Posted April 22, 2009 Would a bunsen burner work? or a blow torch Replaced the arm for now, need the vehicle. Sheared one of the three bolts that holds the chassis link bush. Tried torquing it to 176 nm (130lb/ft) exactly according to the Land Rover MAnuel. Now stuck again. Gues that was the incorrect torque. Sounded a bit high. The best way to learn is te hard way... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aragorn Posted April 22, 2009 Share Posted April 22, 2009 The little M10 ones? No wonder you snapped them lol! I think the big nut between the trailing arm and the bush is probably 130lbft, the little M10's onto the chassis wont be much more than 30-40 i wouldnt think. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ob1 Posted April 22, 2009 Author Share Posted April 22, 2009 glad could make you laugh. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted April 22, 2009 Share Posted April 22, 2009 Would a bunsen burner work? or a blow torch Anything to get enough heat into the inner steel part will be fine, a blowtorch is useful cos you you can actually point it where you want, but a bunsen only burns pretty much upright -a blowtorch will probably have a higher heat output anyways, and a useful tool to have for stuck bolts elsewhere on the truck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lars L Posted April 22, 2009 Share Posted April 22, 2009 I've thought it to be too messy to set things on fire, so I have always drilled some holes through the rubber to weaken it and pushed the inner bush out. Then used hacksaw like others have suggested. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted April 22, 2009 Share Posted April 22, 2009 No need to set it on fire, just hot enough for the rubber to melt I found the drilling method slow, and bad for drill bits Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Henson Posted April 22, 2009 Share Posted April 22, 2009 I have a press for getting them out if the job is on the bench, but on site I burn them out until just the outer sleeve is left (lovely smell), then hacksaw through the sleeve and it comes out easily then. Grease the outside of the new bush and also the arm it's going in - it'll go in a lot easier. I have the A-frame arms to do on Geoffs Disco this week, and plan to set fire to it Les. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dantd5 Posted April 22, 2009 Share Posted April 22, 2009 What are you guys talking about? This is a piece of cake... B) Hammer it to death.... It is easy... Well this was the easiest part of it.... Better get my coat Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AD90 Posted April 22, 2009 Share Posted April 22, 2009 I'm with Lars, setting fire to them is a bit anti-social if you have neighbours within 1/2 a mile. I use a 1/4" drill and drill a series of holes, never broken a drill yet. AD90 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landmannnn Posted April 22, 2009 Share Posted April 22, 2009 I have a press for getting them out if the job is on the bench, but on site I burn them out until just the outer sleeve is left (lovely smell), Les. Les, hope you are masked up, those fumes are highly toxic. The burnt rubber particles are very small so pass straight through the lungs and directly into the bloodstream. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aragorn Posted April 22, 2009 Share Posted April 22, 2009 the only way particles could get from the air in your lungs into the bloodstream is if they are watersoluble... and rubber isnt... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Milemarker Type S Posted April 22, 2009 Share Posted April 22, 2009 I have always stuck with drilling the rubber out- I use an air powered drill as the speed is slower and the job requires a lot of torque. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Timmy511 Posted April 22, 2009 Share Posted April 22, 2009 i use a bushwacker from polly bush. slow but works. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ob1 Posted April 23, 2009 Author Share Posted April 23, 2009 I think it would be drilling, going to do it at the inlaw, he's kot a propper bench clamp. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nicks90 Posted April 23, 2009 Share Posted April 23, 2009 you dont need to actually set fire to them and make clouds of horrible smoke!!! aim the hot part of the blowtorch into the hole in the centre sleeve that the bolt goes through and when the rubber starts to bubble and smell at each end of the sleeve - its ready! The rubber will be partially melted and the centre sleeve will jsut push straight out with the end of a screwdriver or suitably gloved finger!!! Then get a long stanley knife blade and whilst its still hot and soft jsut whip the blade into the rubber and slide it around the outer sleeve and all the rubber will be cut away, two quick cuts with a suitably long + good quality hacksaw blade and the outer will either fall out or come out with a moderate smack. Job done and no flames, smoke or braying things to bits with a lump hammer. if the bushes are really worn, you may not even need to heat the centre sleeve. 3 of the 4 front radius arm bushes had the centre sleeve jsut drop out when i removed the arms, as the rubber was that knackered the bond between the sleeve and rubber had seperated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lars L Posted April 23, 2009 Share Posted April 23, 2009 Worth testing next time... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pete3000 Posted April 23, 2009 Share Posted April 23, 2009 Another vote for warming them out. I used a propane/butane torch too. 1. warm the steel inner tube at both ends until the rubber squishes itself out a bit. 2. tap or push rubber bush with a screwdriver. 3. Use the blunt hacksaw blade (the one you used to try and saw the hardened inner out ) to run round the soft rubber 4. Then a sharp hacksaw blade to cut two slots about 3-4mm apart almost through the outer. 5. Then use a cold chisel to peel the 3mm wide strip out and remove outer. Easy. 6. Repeat until bored, then give up until energy/insomnia returns. must do the front of the vehicle soon. Pete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gruntus Posted April 23, 2009 Share Posted April 23, 2009 I got my old feller to weld me up a square frame (similar to the one created on this forum, sorry cant remember his name) and used a bottle jack to get them out with different size sockets as the press dowels. The rear trailing arms were the worst as there wasnt a great deal of "land" on the arm collars and they are quite wide for the girth of them . If you try the above method (I will post pics if wanted) it is essential to get the right size sockets, too small and they mangle and jam, too large they end up squeezed into the arms as tight as the bushes! The main name of the game is keeping the jack, sockets and arms as perfectly level as possible to keep them square (a little bit off and they squeeze at an angle then jam). I used a bolt through the socket/bush to keep them true but a proper set of dowels for pushing through would be invaluable. NOTE: When they go they go with a bang! (and a quick brown trouser moment ) and may keep banging as you push them clear. All in all the cheapest hydraulic press was a couple of hundred quid and the bushwacker tool is a small fortune also (but both would be well worth it if you use it a couple of times) and I think what I have is both cheap and effective. I managed to get all the bushes out on my own but a second pair of hands would have helped with the front radius arms and the complete A frame (im a bit of a lump anyway), however I did manage to put a dent in the top of the frame and I have to admit to some load expletives that my wife heard through the walls of the house (garage door was down though ). Like I said if anyone is interested I can post pics and dimensions. Cheers G Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NicTheOrange90 Posted April 24, 2009 Share Posted April 24, 2009 I know its not cheap, but I got a 10t press. Ive done about five vehicle now, and it pops em out and in again in 30secs or so. If anyone in east kent wants to pop round and use my home garage services for a beer token (er sorry Garden Centre token for the benefit of the tape) they are most welcome. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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