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any tips for changing clutch slave.


series 3

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The two bolts that retain it can only be got at by a pet octopus, and don't be tempted to tighten them just that little bit more, or they'll strip the threads. The operating rod is held to the fork by a beefy clip and bolt, so there's no worry about it seperating - unlike those stoopid LT77 ones do :angry:

Slacken the pipe fixing before you unbolt it from the bellhousing - it saves having to mess around with mole grips and a spanner in such a confined space. Note that the bleed nipple is at the top (or it should be) Land Rover designed it that way specifically to annoy people. Drain all the fluid out - don't clamp the pipe. This gives you the opportunity to flush the system through and have fresh fluid in there (use DOT4). Get some one to help you bleed (apart from the inevitable scratches). Press the pedal, open the valve, close the valve, release the pedal and press it again, open the valve, close the valve, etc, etc. 4 presses of the pedal will almost empty the reservoir, so bear that in mind. If the pedal feels ok, then the clutch will probably be ok too.

Les.

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as les said, but I also remember cutting an old spanner in half to attack the bleed nipple due to lack of space.

Also, don't buy a cheap slave, get the genuine girling one, it's not much more but will last a lot lot longer.

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Also, don't buy a cheap slave, get the genuine girling one, it's not much more but will last a lot lot longer.

Absolutely no argument there!

As the guys have said and I'll echo, do it right...... and only once! ;)

Todd.

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