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R380 Input shaft play

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I'm trying to find some data on how much play is allowed in the input shaft on my R380...

I'm trying to knock up a gearbox adaptor to mate the R380 to my Audi V8 engine, I have an audi manual box, and the R380, plan is to cut the first inch or two from the audi box, mill it and the R380's bellhousing down to the right height, then sit the engine on its nose, with the gearbox on top to align everything up and weld the two together.

i've noticed today that there is about 1-2mm of movement at the tip of the input shaft which i presume is down to the box being worn, the big issue is that it means its going to be pretty difficult to get it aligned accurately, but also if the box is worn enough to give that much movement then i dont think i've going to last very long with the V8 hooked up to it...

The rebuild manual for the R380 seems to give figures for the endfloat, but not the side to side play...

Any ideas?

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well once its all aligned yes, but it means that before i weld the two bellhousings together i'll be able to move the box around 1-2mm in relation to the engine, and presumably if its not streight its going to last about 30 seconds with 400nm running through it!

If this IS normal, my other thaught was to make up a shim to fit between the input shaft and the release bearing tunnel to hold the shaft centralised, however that assumes the release bearing tunnel is supposed to be concentric around the input shaft, which may not be the case...

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As you have noted, the R380 input shaft is set up by shimming the endfloat rather than lateral displacement.

IIRC, the sleeve around the input shaft isn't dowel located to the gearbox case. It's position couldn't be guaranteed, so I wouldn't use it to centre an engine-gearbox adapter. There might be more mileage in mapping the position of all the bellhousing stud holes and working out the centre of the pitch circle. A similar exercise with the back of the Audi engine shouldn't be too bad as you have the end of the crankshaft to centre from. This topic might have some pointers if you are starting from a R380 V8 bellhousing.

You also have the opportunity to set the length of the bellhousing so that the clutch cover appears at the right for the release bearing to work correctly (assuming a LR/RR clutch plate will fit with an Audi cover).

I would be inclined to build a jig to hold the front bit of Audi and aft bit of LR bellhousings before committing to a weld. This would give you a fighting chance that everything was centred and parallel.

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I currently have a 300Tdi bellhousing but it puts the clutch slave in the middle of the starter motor on the V8, so i'm acuiring a housing from a disco V8.

My problem is that to get the lengths right i will need to mill around 40-50mm off the front of the V8 bellhousing, meaning any measurements from its bolt holes are useless...

Any other ideas?

I'm thinking i could somehow take the measurements from the rear of the bellhousing, where it attaches to the box itself? If i bolt the tdi bellhousing onto the TDi, then produce a plate, which bolts on inplace of the gearbox, and holds a faux input shaft (some dowel say) centralised in the crank without any play, then that should just about work?

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