elmscroft Posted April 26, 2009 Share Posted April 26, 2009 Hi All, I have had a problem with rear right hand wheel getting very hot on occasions. On stipping down have found brake pads thinner than the opposite side, leading me to say the piston is sticking. On removing caliper, piston will not move in/out or rotate using pliers, but will move out will engine running and brake pedal depressed, obviously once re-connected, (for those with a GSOH). Questions being; Should it rotate? Should it move in/out easily? Is there likely to have been any damage to hub through overheating? Can I fit free off or need to fit new piston kit? Is there a piston kit? Is it wise to do both rears? After all that, I'll change fluid, normal bleeding procedure? Any help and pointers would be appreciated. Many Thanks Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Escape Posted April 27, 2009 Share Posted April 27, 2009 Make sure you check the part of the caliper that guides the pads as well, they often get rough and cause the pads to stick. Especially if only one pad (on the same wheel) is sticking, I'd check/clean those first. Also make sure you give the guiding pins a good clean. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
elmscroft Posted May 1, 2009 Author Share Posted May 1, 2009 After cleaning and checking, it seems to be the piston sticking. For quickness I was going to get new caliper. Anyone know, is it just umbolt old, bolt on new, bleed caliper job done, or is there something I might be missing? Thanks Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nicks90 Posted May 5, 2009 Share Posted May 5, 2009 unbolt - rebolt and bleed.. job done. i had simillar problems a while ago and it was just those guide thingies inside the rubber grommets. one was all gammed up due to a split rubber. new rubber and some grease on the guide pin and all was well again. Cant say if i noticed anything about the piston is it should turn etc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
teabag Posted May 5, 2009 Share Posted May 5, 2009 Should it rotate? .................Yes, they are not keyed. Should it move in/out easily? .....................They are an exact fit but should push in/out Is there likely to have been any damage to hub through overheating? ......................... May be, but you may be lucky you will soon know if the seal has gone Can I fit free off or need to fit new piston kit? ............... New kit, its sticking because the chrome is peeling off the old piston. Is there a piston kit?.................. I would think so., but check out the price of a new caliper, that may be better for you. Is it wise to do both rears?.................... Wise? may be but no need to do them at the same time. After all that, I'll change fluid, normal bleeding procedure? ...................Yes longest pipe first unless a D2 is different. A nice mornings job if/when the sun is shining Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
elmscroft Posted May 8, 2009 Author Share Posted May 8, 2009 Hi All Just an update. New caliper fitted. All seems ok. Went to strip old unit and so far brute force has not moved piston. Many Thanks Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
First_Fleet Posted May 8, 2009 Share Posted May 8, 2009 As it has now been replaced & may be possibly used as a future spare, I suggest you try a bit of gradual heating with a blowlamp/oxy etc while trying to remove it. Maybe soaking it with some WD40 or similar beforehand may help the process. ****** NB Don't forget there are hard to find seals joining the 2 x halves though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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