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lifting a series


python

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hi guys, im looking to give my series a real lift. similar to fridgefreezers series. i have a series 2a 109. im looking to put on parabolic springs and locate the axles underneath the springs with longer u bolts. i was talking this through with a mate and he said something about axle wrap.??? is this an easy enough mod or an i best to leave well alone? thanks guys.

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hi guys, im looking to give my series a real lift. similar to fridgefreezers series. i have a series 2a 109. im looking to put on parabolic springs and locate the axles underneath the springs with longer u bolts. i was talking this through with a mate and he said something about axle wrap.??? is this an easy enough mod or an i best to leave well alone? thanks guys.

Have you tried a trolley jack. :P

Seriosuly though, there is nothing easy about a spring over axle conversion. Your biggest problem is the steering linkages.

Axle wrap would be increased. If you search it on google, there are plenty of tech threads on it, and ways to over come it if you can fabricate... or know soem one.

Fridges uses portal axles so gains silly ground clearance. SOA doesn't. And you can't really fit larger tyres with out spending mucho on axle components.

Oh and getting custom u-bolts properly made up isn't cheap either! but with para's you shouldn't need it as the spring doesnt have so many layers.

Oops beat me to it!!! damit

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i´ll JUST have to get one tonne spring hangers and parab...

No problem with the rear axle. I have had an issue with the front propshaft, resp. the anterior U-joint binding when braking (needn´t be a panic stop to shoot sparks from under the car). I used the angle grinder to grind away some steel of the propshaft to give the u-joint more movement. But that´s not the best way long term and in the end I have had a wide-angle propshaft made.

Point is that the spring hangers on the front axle will tilt the diff downwards. That isn´t wanted at all. Maybe some have had put some wedges between spring and axle to compensate (or, maybe smarter even but more work, the weldet-to-axle blocks under the axle (on which the axles rests onto the spring) cut off and welded on again after having tilted the axle a little (first has to be confirmed that there is space to rotate that block on r/h where the diff housing is.

Next possible issue is the crossmember under the gearbox. The 1ton vehicle had a round "cut out" in the region of the propshaft to allow for a little more downward movement of it.

So nothing that couldn´t be sorted. But I think you will experience the propshaft problem - as I had it and that was even with (a RRC axle modified to take leaf springs and by doing so I) tilted the axle forward to compensate for the rearward-rotation that the longer hangers did. I too had the Santana parabolic springs which seem to allow more warping. Think that the stiff standard springs would minimize the above.

If you are prepared to weld, then you might even change the chassis front ends to those of the 1ton/military109" items on both sides. That would allow you to put the front axle in with the right "angle" together with the longer spring hangers. Would be an opportunity to modify to anterior spring mount of the rear springs to that of 1ton/109"military standard too. Put in a SIII Salisbury axle to survive with bigger tyres. And then use 9.00" tyres. Somehow create a 1-ton look-alike (the OEM one had a different steering box that made the job a little easier). Cool setup IMHO. Not quite portals though. :)

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My truck is at standard ride height, not even 1-ton shackles. As has been said, lifting it screws steering geometry and knocks on all sorts of other things like brake lines, prop angles & UJ's. Series axles won't cope with tyres big enough to warrant a lift anyway.

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