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Shock Horror


GBMUD

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I finally got around to changing the front springs and shocks today, weeks after I should have done. Not only were the original shocks a nightmare to remove - without the correct tools - but the springs I thought would work OK do not. All of this has only served to put me into a bad mood which has made the next problem seem all the more frustrating.

I bought Boge shocks to replace the LR original ones - no lift or anything fancy, just the right price and quality. The trouble I am having is that I have no idea in what order to use the rubbers and washers supplied. The original shocks were fitted with things threaded onto the shock stud in the following order: Washer, rubber, washer, hole in the axle, washer, rubber, washer, nut. Simple, just as I would expect. The new Boge shocks come with the washers and rubbers in two little bags, two bags per shock, I assume one bag per shock end. This is what was in the bags:

post-209-1240948371_thumb.jpg

You will see that there are only 3 washers, all different. There is one thin one with a large hole in it and a flange sticking out. This is just big enough to go on first and fit poorly on the thickest part of the stud where is welds to the shock body. The old shock is shown below for reference as it is very similar to the new one. There are two thicker concave (or convex, depending how you look at them!) washers, one with a small hole to fit the threaded part of the stud and one with a larger hole to fit the smooth part. The two rubbers are apparently identical, note the flange ring on the rubbers, this seems a good size for the hole in the axle and each rubber will fit on the smooth part of the shock pin.

post-209-1240948604_thumb.jpg

Any washer between a rubber and the axle mount will foul the nuts/bolts holding the spring lower mounting plate onto the axle. Not fitting washers against the axle mounting seems to leave the shock loose once tightened up - i.e., fitting only 2 washers and 2 rubbers.

The new rubbers/washers are larger in diameter than the original ones.

Any ideas folks? It has me beat. At the moment all I can think is that I have been sold the wrong shocks. Ideas welcome.

Thanks

Chris

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Looks fine to me except there should have been 2 washers like the one in the lower right corner (the one with the bevel). All 4 bags have only 3 washers inside?

This is how they should be assembled:

post-1725-1240956149_thumb.jpg

From the damper body to the nut:

- thick washer with bigger hole (if one of the two has a bigger hole), convex side towards the body

- bush with the bevel towards the nut end

- thin washer with the bevel towards the nut end

- ..... here comes the axle bracket

- thin washer with the bevel facing the damper body

- bush with the bevel facing the damper body

- thick washer with the smaller hole, convex side facing the nut.

Same way at the other end.

I don't think the thin washers foul the spring mounting plate or bolts. Maybe its the current position of the axle with the springs fully extended or something.

What kind and year LR are we talking about and what part #s did you order or are there written on the boxes?

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Those bushes and thick washers look similar to the procomp items, not like the standard items, which have relativerly smaller bushes and the washers are generally flat with just the edges rolled to cup the bushes.

I would put them together in the same order as cipx2, but with the convex side of the thick washers agaist the bushes to allow the damper to pivot side to side more freely (remember the snapping procomps). The stepped side of the bushes look like they should locate nicely in the hole in the thin washer and bracket with the domed side against the thick washers. This should allow the damper to rotate side to side more easily while still limiting axial and radial movement.

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Those washers are the only ones supplied, all four bags the same. Using four washers is not an option.

These are the original washers/rubbers together with the new ones, they are clearly different. (Old ones on the left)

post-209-1240987281_thumb.jpg

I thought to measure the length of the mounting stud on the old and new shocks. The old ones are 35mm from the shoulder to the start of the thread and the new ones are 45mm from the shoulder to the thread. I am rapidly coming to the conclusion that they are just plain wrong.

The shocks are Boge and the number on the box are '32-L46-0 Land Rover'. I asked for the shocks from an independent LR dealer giving both the vehicle model (2004 D110 SW) and the LR part number RSC100050. I originally asked for OE but accepted Boge as they are a good quality brand.

Thanks for the suggestions of help. :)

Chris

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Could the different length be absorbed simply by the thickness of the new bushes and where the washers sit?

If you put the flatter washer at the top, then the bush, then the curved washer, with the curve facing down to facilitate movement. Then slide the pin through the axle, put the next curved washer on, curve facing up, then the bush and then try a flat washer and a nut.

The movement will be allowed by the curves and the extra pin length will presumably be absorbed by the bush and washer arrangement. The shoulder on the pin will perhaps act as a stop for the final washer and nut.

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If both new bushes are beveled then there must be two beveled washers to match. In the 1st pic it seems the bush in top left corner could be beveled but placed upside down.

Is it beveled as well?

The Boge code appears in an aftermarket shock absorber list here but this doesn't mean it has the correct set of bushes and washers.

A picture for the same part# and quality I found on a webshop seems to show 3 washers per bag also.

post-1725-1240993933_thumb.jpg

One option is to return them. Another option would be to buy 4 sets of bushes and washers but before that you should test the old bushes&washers to see if the nut doesn't bottom out given the difference in the threaded/unthreaded lengths on the studs.

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why should chris have to faff around coz he has been supplied the wrong stuff. If he doesnt need to change now ie he still has the old one then the supplier should sort it out. If he gets it wrong he could end up elongating the whole where the pin sits in the axle

paul

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IIRC there was a thread recently (sorry not been able to find it) that mentioned certain axles having a pressed steel cup already fitted to the top face. This would to all intents and purposes make one of the thinner centralising washers redundant.

The OP of that thread could not understand why he had an extra washer, pretty much the reverse of your situation.

Could it be that the shocks you have bought were intended for one of those axles?

Regarding pin length, I have found that the non gen shocks tend to have a simple shaped bush (as in your picture) that is a bit thicker than the gen fancy profiled bushes. This would account for a little extra pin length.

Edit: just found the thread, it was your rear shock thread Chris, silly me! Have you still got the spare washers from those? I would have thought they would do the job.

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I doubt that I still have the spare washers from the rears - mentioned in my first 'Shock Horror' thread. As V8Camel suggests, why should I have to mess about, I bought these as a bolt on replacement, not as a Mensa puzzle. I could use the old rubbers/washers but I bought new because that was what I wanted.

The bushes supplied with the shock appear thinner than the original ones so I have misgivings about the correct amount of 'preload' being applied to the bushes when there seems to be less rubber/metal in there.

For now I am going to re-fit the original shocks and seek replacements at a later date. I am going to Morocco in 10 days time so I need it to be right and reliable - a broken shock is not a show stopper but could be a royal PITA.

Thanks everyone for your thoughts and advice, I do appreciate having the ideas to consider. :)

Cheers

Chris

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