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Range Rover Classic 3.9 EFI Manual


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Hello all of you,

Do you know if you can make adjustments in a 3.9 Hot wire airflow meter??

The hole that should be tappet on mine is open.

what setting should i aim for??

is a non cat Range Rover from Italy

also, i am not sure about the timming. how many degrees after TDC should i time my rangie

at 5.000rpm i get lots of hunting from the exhaust and it cannot go further than that.

any ideas?? But idle is fine both on LPG and PETROL

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Hello all of you,

Do you know if you can make adjustments in a 3.9 Hot wire airflow meter??

The hole that should be tappet on mine is open.

what setting should i aim for??

is a non cat Range Rover from Italy

also, i am not sure about the timming. how many degrees after TDC should i time my rangie

at 5.000rpm i get lots of hunting from the exhaust and it cannot go further than that.

any ideas?? But idle is fine both on LPG and PETROL

Timing should be between zero degrees BEFORE top dead centre and as much as 12 degrees BEFORE top dead centre, depending on fuel quality.

LPG will demand more 'advance' so more degrees before TDC..... I'd start at about 4 Deg Before Top Dead Centre and work from there going more degrees before until I encountered 'knock'.......

Range rover engines are designed to red-line at 5,000 rpm........ and to be Honest, I'm suprised you can get it to actually rev that high! Most start to struggle at around 4,500 and the fueling map on EFi's is intended to effectively limit them from going much over 4,750........

Sounds like you may have one that has been 'chipped' or other-wise 'messed with'....... Racers reckon that the V8 is good for ABOUT 5,500 rpm with what they consider to be reasonable reliability on standard valve gear, but Range Rovers have smaller valves than road going variants and normally run out of breath long before they reach those sort of engine speeds.

As for your AFM......... I'm not entirely sure what you are trying to do.......... or what you mean when you say that the tapped hole on yours is open? Do you mean on the AFM or on the plenum? The cold start stepper and injector on the back of it perhaps?

Only think I can suggest 'blind' is to look at the hose between the plenum and the AFM becouse these usually perish and drag air under load, so renewing that and clamping it up tight, so that all the air sucked into the engine has to go through the AFM often cures a lot of problems...... of if it doesn't eliminates ONE for further diagnostics.....

And if you are running on gas........ those hoses tend to get split ot burst by LPG 'back-fire'......... so more likely to be damaged.

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The hole you refer to as being open rather than tapped may be the mixture control and it may have a metal cap pushed in to stop you playing with it. If you must go in there it can be dug out with a small screwdriver then the adjuster takes an alen key.

Steve

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