Mike the Bike Posted May 23, 2009 Share Posted May 23, 2009 Fran the Freelander is playing up agian.................(Td4 2003) Just located a vaccum leak on Wednesday and she's fun to drive again and wham, she stops playing fair and starts sulkin' - bitch. Starting out yesterday, 10yds from our front door changing up into 2nd and the clutch pedal stayed on the floor and she's stuck in neutral! Consulted a copy of RAVE - 2001 onward - to find she's not only hydraulic but is makin' me have to choose between two cylinders to find a fix. Changing the Master looks straight forward but have been informed by a trade source that its more likely to be the Slave which is the same work as a clutch change.........ouch! No prizes for guessing which the local garage will diagnose as faulty, ......how can I diagnose for my own piece of mind which is the faulty one? When the pedals on the floor, I can pull it back up to the sound of a quiet sucking noise. Have depressed the pedal half a dozen times now, no sign of fluid under the car - under engine panel is removed The tiny black reservoir with pipe going into top of bell housing has seen fluid level fall, can see bleed nipple down there also?? (Have read both cylinders are sealed units?) Any diagnostic tips gratefully received............... Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Orange Posted May 24, 2009 Share Posted May 24, 2009 Sounds familiar to the prblem my neighbour had with theirs. The clutch master and slave cylinders on the 1.8 petrols are connected by a small tube around the edge of the engine bay on the passenger side. They have to be replaced as a complete set )includig the pipe) as they come pre-assembled and filled. It's a simple job to do - there might even be a thread in the Tech Archive if you look carefully... I assume the set-up is the same on the TD4, but I'm willing to be corrected. The replacement process goes something like: 1/ disconnect the master cylinder from the clutch pedal in the driers footwell. 2/ Move to the engine bay and twist the master cylinder through 90 degrees so it will pull out of the bulkhead. 3/ Unclip the hose and thread the master cylinder around the engine bay. 4/ Remove the airbox. 5/ Remove the plastic C-clip from the slave cylinder at the side of the gearbox. 6/ Wiggle the slave cylinder and it'll come out. 7/ Replace new slave cylinder being careful not to let the actuator arm come out. 8/ Thread the master cylinder around the engine bay and back through the bulkhead. 9/ Reconnect the clutch pedal and replace the airbox. 10/ Test it........ Simples... Even I managed to do it!! Took about an hour and I only had the Haynes Manual to go by which, while OK, isn't great!! Don't drom the C-clip!! Although you will get a new one, it's a b#gger to get it out with all the plastic trims underneath!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fireater Posted May 25, 2009 Share Posted May 25, 2009 Fran the Freelander is playing up agian.................(Td4 2003)Just located a vaccum leak on Wednesday and she's fun to drive again and wham, she stops playing fair and starts sulkin' - bitch. Starting out yesterday, 10yds from our front door changing up into 2nd and the clutch pedal stayed on the floor and she's stuck in neutral! Consulted a copy of RAVE - 2001 onward - to find she's not only hydraulic but is makin' me have to choose between two cylinders to find a fix. Changing the Master looks straight forward but have been informed by a trade source that its more likely to be the Slave which is the same work as a clutch change.........ouch! No prizes for guessing which the local garage will diagnose as faulty, ......how can I diagnose for my own piece of mind which is the faulty one? When the pedals on the floor, I can pull it back up to the sound of a quiet sucking noise. Have depressed the pedal half a dozen times now, no sign of fluid under the car - under engine panel is removed The tiny black reservoir with pipe going into top of bell housing has seen fluid level fall, can see bleed nipple down there also?? (Have read both cylinders are sealed units?) Any diagnostic tips gratefully received............... Mike Hi Mike if it is the one you describe that takes about 30 to 40 minutes disconnect on the pedal and take out from the engine bay side. regards FIREATER Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike the Bike Posted May 30, 2009 Author Share Posted May 30, 2009 Hi Mike if it is the one you describe that takes about 30 to 40 minutes disconnect on the pedal and take out from the engine bay side. regards FIREATER Thanks but I would expect to be able to find the fluid being lost from the master cylinder either on the ground, dripping down inside engine bay or under the carpet by the drivers foot well, but all these clues to it being the master are not observed. As no fluid loss is observable I'm lead to think that lost fluid is collecting inside near the release bearing. What are your thoughts re fluid visibility...................? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Don Posted May 30, 2009 Share Posted May 30, 2009 Hi Mike, Had a similar problem with my 2001 TD4. Kept losing pressure on the pedal so had it looked at. Garage said master and changed it. Six weeks later same again. Garage then said slave (£600+) but if I kept the resevoir topped up I could delay the inevitable. Eighteen months down the line and a few top ups later, bang, the pedal hits the floor and there is a two mile tail back on the A38 until the recovery truck came. £709 at a garage twenty miles from home, hire car to fetch my daughter from uni in Sheffieldand no car for over Easter. Moral of the story? Get it done!! In all fairness the garage did put a new clutch in why they where about it. Cheers Don (now officially skint!!!) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike the Bike Posted June 1, 2009 Author Share Posted June 1, 2009 Hi Mike if it is the one you describe that takes about 30 to 40 minutes disconnect on the pedal and take out from the engine bay side. regards FIREATER Have decided it is the master cylinder as fluid is not being lost, just changes level with pedal depression, couldn't get the resevoir cap off completely to observe it properly. Have seen on RAVE the need for a tool to disconnect the two hydraulic pipe sections. Don't want to risk damaging it by forcing it. There's a small black plastic collar that sits at the joint, if that is pushed back fully so it disappears practically into the connector and the two pipes pulled apart, would you expect them to part company safely without the use of the tool? Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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